Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: painless vs. ron francis
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 25 of 25
  1. #16
    mustangwizard is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Muskogee
    Car Year, Make, Model: 70 shelby GT 500 Superstreet
    Posts
    6

    Painless or Ron Francis

     



    We bought Ron Francis 32 circuit setup for our 70 shelby superstreet and were able to move the fuse panel from high up on the fire wall.(Boys & Girls, can you say CONTORTIONIST)to mounting the new fuse box to the back of the Glove Box door! It sure make things nice when you need to add something! I'm glad we went with Ron's Kit!

  2. #17
    Rrumbler is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Car Year, Make, Model: Sans hot rod, sold the truck.
    Posts
    1,207

    Post

     



    As an old veteran wire monger (industrial, commercial electrician), may I offer a few opinions/observations.

    The kits with the pre-terminated and loomed wires are handy, if you are going to wire your ride the way the kit is layed out. All you have to do is mount the fuse block in approximately the spot that the setup was designed for, and place all of the stuff that uses the juice in the approximate locations that the kit "wants" them, and weasel the wire loom into place. If, on the other hand, you want to put your coil, or some other component somewhere other than the spot they have pre-ordained, or very nearly so, or add something extra to the setup, then you must "haywire" or "jury rig" it. This can get messy, and may not look completely "tits" (apologies to the ladies), because there will be extra splices in a given wire, and the color and/or markings usually will not match up, or the extra wires will have to be accomodated outside of the design. Sure, it will be inside of a "snakeskin", or taped up nice-like, but the added splices are a weak spot in the system; and, the differences are there, whether they can be seen, or not. Also, as mentioned in other posts, the extra wires for things you don't use are just sort of hanging out there; extra stuff that might get in the way, or take up valuable space. These kits are generally easier for a novice to install, because you dont have to be too well versed on placement, shaping and bundling; basically, it's all been done for you.

    With the kits with a non-terminated, or open terminal fuse block, (my preference is Ron Francis), you have complete freedom to mount all of your "stuff" wherever it suits you, and run the wires wherever you want to. You only install the circuits that are needed, and don't have bunch of "extra" wires that you don't use, hanging out in the loom. And, you install the right length of wire, without the need for extra splices. Just a neater, and more serviceable solution, in my opinion.

    So, do your homework, research, and choose what you are most comfortable with, or like the idea of. They all will work, at least all of the major ones. I think I would steer clear of any system that is not too well known, though; you might just get an ugly surprise.

  3. #18
    T2B
    T2B is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    San Diego
    Car Year, Make, Model: 23' T Bucket
    Posts
    34

    wire harness

     



    Hi, I wire cars as a sideline and have used both harnesses you have mentioned. I liked the Painless better, mostly because I work on more GM than Ford. The Francis harness dissappointed in the fuse block terminations. I preffer not to have screws holding my harness to my fuse block. Easier to service but may loosen due to vibration. That is the big difference between the two harnesses one is terminated in the fuse block the other is srewed into the fuse block. You could always make your own, it really is not all that hard. Good luck.

  4. #19
    akrateffil's Avatar
    akrateffil is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Effingham
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1956 Plymouth Savoy, 1948 Plymouth 2 doo
    Posts
    180

    Question

     



    After reading everyones reply, I feel a little confused on the different manufacturers setup. Many are saying with the Ron F. wiring you can run one wire at a time. The painless wiring you have to run all. To clarify my thoughts;
    Ron F kit you would mount the fuse block and run and terminate each wire individually.
    Painless kit you mount the fuse block and run the wires, but they are already terminated.

    My question: why can't you run one wire at a time with the painless or other kits?

    I am going to be wiring my 56 in late winter and getting geared up to do it.

  5. #20
    paul274854 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Midland park
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford Conv,54 Ford Vict
    Posts
    193

    On both systems you run the wires one at a time. The advantage of the Ron Francis system is that you don't have a lot of preconnected wires to contend with, making everything easier. I have a Ron Francis unit in my 48 - installed it over 20 yrs ago and never had a problem with it. One advantage with the Francis unit is that all updates he has made can be incorporated into an older system.

    I have wired four cars - one with a Francis unit, one with a Its A Snap unit (sort of like a Painless) one with another brand I can't remember the name of and one self made. All have served well with no problems so far. My opinion, the Francis unit is probably the best on the market, although you probably will not have any problems with most of the others.
    Last edited by paul274854; 11-22-2005 at 07:33 PM.

  6. #21
    brickman's Avatar
    brickman is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    west plains
    Car Year, Make, Model: '48 chev Stylemaster
    Posts
    1,390

    I used the "It's a Snap" ZZ-20 also, and I didn't see any problem with having the whole harness in the car to contend with. I did like the idea of everything already connected to the fuse block and the very small fuse blk also. I didn't find any problem running out the harness where it needed to be but the GM harness fit my 48 really well. I couldn't justify the enormous price difference between the 2 and my car is wired neatly and works great for my first time. I had no problem with thier manual figuring it out.
    "Sunshine, a street rod and a winding beautiful Ozarks road is truely Bliss!"

  7. #22
    rumrumm's Avatar
    rumrumm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Macomb
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
    Posts
    1,593

    I wired my '32 with a Centech kit, and would highly recommend it. Their customer service is excellent, too. There is nothing wrong with Painless or RF wiring kits as they are both high quality, but because I have issues with RF as a person, I won't use his stuff.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  8. #23
    m falconstien is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Johnstown
    Car Year, Make, Model: 62 falcon
    Posts
    183

    EZ wire was cheaper by over $100 and the quality was every bit as good. I'm not joe wiring and I did it without a hitch. All wire was marked and easy to read.

  9. #24
    53fatfndr's Avatar
    53fatfndr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Caldwell
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Ford F-100
    Posts
    211

    Painless for me. Service was awesome both on the phone and through email. I plan on using them for my next project as well. Ron Francis is way too pricey....$$

  10. #25
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    2,334

    putt putt to www.delcity.net and buy the components to do your own harness......although you wont have the nice wire stamped identifiers. You can buy wire labels or numbers to compensate.

    DelCity sells the good high temp wire like Painless and Francis use.

    mike in tucson

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink