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Thread: 48 Chevy 1/2 ton
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    sam mcdowell is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 chevy 1/2 ton pickup
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    Question 48 Chevy 1/2 ton

     



    I'm new at this so bear with my ignorance. I just bought a 48 Chevy PU, last driven in 68. Lots of rust etc. All I plan to use is the frame & body. My questions are: what rear end will work in it? What about adding coil/over shocks with a 4-bar kit? What trans ( I would like a 5 or 6 spd manual)? What about getting a beatup C4 vette as a doner for eng, trans, steering column, ac, etc.? I've found a guy who put a M2 front end in it for $1500. Thanx for any help.

  2. #2
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
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    Well I am not too sure on your question but where did you pick this truck up at? I live about 2 hours from you maybe more but just wondering....
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  3. #3
    sam mcdowell is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 chevy 1/2 ton pickup
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    48 chevy pu

     



    I'm in Statesville NC

  4. #4
    Bib_Overalls's Avatar
    Bib_Overalls is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Ford Roadster/26 T Sedan
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    I am not a big fan of frame clips. Mustang II front ends are OK but I think the Dakota front crossmembers offered by http://industrialchassisinc.com/ are superior. Progressive Chassis in Ohio (I think) offers Corvette suspension kits for your truck. Progressive, Industrial Chassis, Art Morrison, and Fat Man Fabrication all offer complete frames for your truck. On the surface, the buy in looks high. But when you start factoring in time, particularly when you are paying by the hour, they start to look very affordable. I suspect the $1,500 quoted includes the labor and the cost of a fabricated crossmember but not the Mustng II components. If the quote is for a complete installation he will most certainly be using a cut out crossmember and components from an old Mustang II or Pinto. When he gets done you will have a scabby looking crossmember, small brakes, and components that are most likely used up.

    Fat Man Fabrications is in your neck of the woods (Charlotte, NC). If you bring your frame to them they can install one of their crossmembers while you wait. You will pay more but you will get more. They can also help you with your rear end. I'd give them a call (704) 545-0369. Even if you don't use their stuff you will come away better informed.
    An Old California Rodder
    Hiding Out In The Ozarks

  5. #5
    chevy 37's Avatar
    chevy 37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 chevy truck& 33 fordtruck
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    On my 37 chevy pickup I used a 9" ford rear end and a AMC pacer front end which gave me a rack and pinion and disc brakes in the front. I've had no trouble with it in the last 7 years. Can't help with the standard tanny since I put in a 350.
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

  6. #6
    sam mcdowell is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    48 Chevy pu

     



    I've heard the 9" rear end was good. What car should I look for to get the right kind? Where would I get instalation instructions for the AMC front end?

  7. #7
    Don Meyer is offline Moderator Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 GMC trk & a 66 Rolls Royce
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    The rear end should be about 61" wire. I used a 71 Mustang 9". For the suspension I use Chrysler 5th ave leaf springs.

    For the front I have used Must II, Camaro & 84 Buick Regal. The Regal is the best fit & ride.

    I use a 88 to 98 full size Chevy bed narrowed 13" & w/the original rear fenders(narrowed).

    The one I currently working on is chopped 3 1/2" & the doors lengthened 3". It also has 64 Caddy fins.

    Don
    Don Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).

  8. #8
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by Bib_Overalls
    I am not a big fan of frame clips. Mustang II front ends are OK but I think the Dakota front crossmembers offered by http://industrialchassisinc.com/ are superior. Progressive Chassis in Ohio (I think) offers Corvette suspension kits for your truck. Progressive, Industrial Chassis, Art Morrison, and Fat Man Fabrication all offer complete frames for your truck. On the surface, the buy in looks high. But when you start factoring in time, particularly when you are paying by the hour, they start to look very affordable. I suspect the $1,500 quoted includes the labor and the cost of a fabricated crossmember but not the Mustng II components. If the quote is for a complete installation he will most certainly be using a cut out crossmember and components from an old Mustang II or Pinto. When he gets done you will have a scabby looking crossmember, small brakes, and components that are most likely used up.

    Fat Man Fabrications is in your neck of the woods (Charlotte, NC). If you bring your frame to them they can install one of their crossmembers while you wait. You will pay more but you will get more. They can also help you with your rear end. I'd give them a call (704) 545-0369. Even if you don't use their stuff you will come away better informed.
    Charlotte is about 15 minutes from me but I have never heard of this place. Did you say they help with rear ends? If so then what kind of help do you mean, like getting one for us or just helping you out?
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  9. #9
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    Bib_Overalls is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Fat Man is a full service chassis shop. They are best known for their Mustang II front suspensions. They fabricate crossmembers for a wide range of vehicles and offer their own line of Mustang II based suspension components. They also offer rear suspension kits (springs, shocks, etc.) for some vehicles including First Series pickups. I am sure they could get you a new rear end if that is what you want. They can also give you some good ideas as to what to look for if you decide to sourse one from a yard. Fat Man advertises in most of the hot rod and truck building magazines.
    An Old California Rodder
    Hiding Out In The Ozarks

  10. #10
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    www.fatmanfab.com check it out
    Jim

  11. #11
    Don Meyer is offline Moderator Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I have built over 30 streetrods & have used many IFS. I was one of the first to install a Must II IFS back in the 70's before kits were available.
    There have been failures of the Must II because it is hard to duplicate the original installation of the strut rod. The new strutless lower A arms are not as strong as the factory units( in my humble opinion). The load is distribuated over a small area. This view comes from one w/a background in mech engr.
    The GM clip has a very wide stance & the lower control arm distribues the load over a large area. One can see the difference if the two units are side by side.
    I currently am building my 3rd 48 Chevy trk & it was a no brainer to install a 84 Buick Regal IFS.
    Don
    Ps if i were to buy a Must II IFS kit I would not chose Fat Man's.
    Last edited by Don Meyer; 07-08-2004 at 10:17 AM.
    Don Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).

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