Thread: replacing control arm bushings
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09-08-2004 08:22 PM #1
replacing control arm bushings
I have a 1969 Camaro. I am planning to change the control arm bushings this weekend. Do I have to take the control arms to a machine shop to have the bushings pressed in or can I replace them myself?Wildphil
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09-08-2004 11:42 PM #2
make sure ya have a 12 pk and a lot of patience Ive done them useing a vice but IT sure would of been nice to have a press but not to bad just a couple skinned up knuckles but hey they wont run unless you bust your knukles once or twicedrive it like ya stole it
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09-09-2004 07:41 AM #3
And, in case you're unaware, don't tighten the bolts at each pivot point with the suspension hanging. The suspension needs to be "loaded", ie at ride heigth, or you'll induce bind on your new bushings.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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09-10-2004 08:47 PM #4
Guys I have a arber press. I will try it in the morning. If it will not work then it is off to the machine shop. Any more tips? I am changing the control arm bushings,all the tie rod ends,ball joints,front coil springs,and the bushings on the sway bar. It will be a very busy weekend. I would be very grateful for any helpful tips on any of these tasks.Wildphil
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09-10-2004 09:40 PM #5
i have done this several times and hated every minute of it the last time i took the control arms to the mechanic my shop uses and he did it for 60 buck. i was more than willing to fork over the cash. if you have access to na air compressor and a good air chisel that will get them out putting them in is another story. good luckcraftsman try to turn of the voices in there head. artists listen to them
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09-15-2004 10:58 AM #6
Do not under estimate the power of the coil spring if u are not familiar with removel and instalation u may not get the chance to drive ur completed ride !!!!Or atleast it will be really hard to drive with 1 arm or no head!!!Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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09-15-2004 02:43 PM #7
I hear if you use urethane bushings, you can just stick them in the freezer for a few hours and they'll shrink enough that you can just drop them in the hole.
I didn't know the job was going to be as hard as everybody is describing, I am planning on doing the control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and ball joints in my truck very shortly. I have a big vice that should be able to handle the job, I just need a work bench to mount it on and some garage space for the work bench.
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09-15-2004 04:39 PM #8
You can get some of the tools you might need at Autozone. They loan them out at no charge. I replaced all the ball joints and upper control arm bushings on the Nova front end in my Studebaker a few months ago. It was a week-end project without power tools. I took the control arms to the local front end shop that did my alignment when I was done. They charged 1/2 hour labor to knock the old bushings out and press the new ones in. Best $35 I've spent in a while!
Have fun with it
PatOf course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!
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09-19-2004 09:42 PM #9
There is a c clamp tool out there that allows you to remove and install new controll arm bushings with ease. It uses a inpact wrench and socket on one end to push and pull (hypothecticly) the bushings out. There is an example in jc whitney for those you have that mag. Wouldnt be that hard to make your own set either.No "BETTY CROCKER'' ready made cars here, everything here is made from scratch , the ground up.....build it , dont buy it
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09-19-2004 10:01 PM #10
You have one hell of a little task ahead. I never have enjoyed control arm bushings. A whole lot of cussing is what I did. If you have access to a co2 fire ext you can stick them in a coffee can and open up the fire ext. That will freeze the bushings. A welder showed that to me while I was a tank mech in the Army. We did it to put bearings in road wheels on M88 Rec vehicles. Don't inhale the gases though. Good luck and have fun!!It ain't broke if you can fix it.
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09-19-2004 10:30 PM #11
Hey I bought a kit similar to that from Harbor Freight Tools(low budget in this house) for a whole 30 bucks. With my luck it will break the first time I use it. Cheap made in china crap. It does lower ball joints and bearings also comes with directions in chinese so I can't understand none of it. But it is pretty self explanitory. And auto zone has it for loan out also.It ain't broke if you can fix it.
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09-20-2004 04:46 PM #12
Re: hot wrench
Originally posted by csf03716
i was taught the old fashion way...put'em in a vise.....fire up the torch....turn on the fan and open all the doors....have drum of water to dunk'em in ....and then we'd bang'em in w/big impact socket and 3lb hammer...it was crude but it worked..especially if you didnt have the bucks to pay or the luxury of a press....and it was kinda fun and very satisfying at the end of it all ....
I am about to do the same procedure on my MII cross fer the Plydo. Dont think I'll have a problem forking over some dough for the shop to press em. Grinding and drilling out the riveted ball joints was enough fun fer me, they dont exactly fit in the drill press too stable. Mebe I'll try the freezer an air chizel fer fun on one an see howz it goes.Justin RFFR
Isaiah 40:31
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09-20-2004 05:46 PM #13
Ya, nuthin worse than dripping, flaming rubber an plastics to get yer feet a' dancin'!Justin RFFR
Isaiah 40:31
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09-20-2004 08:19 PM #14
Well, I now have my front end rebuilt. The upper ball joints were not no bad. But after I spent about an hour just removing one of the lower ball joints. I decided to have a machine shop press in the lower ball joints. Also remove the old bushings and press in the new ones. That was a wise decision. They did a good job. With the new springs,ball joints,and bushings. I could not believe how the suspension tightened up and how well the car drives.Wildphil
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09-20-2004 09:51 PM #15
plasma cutter and an air chisel , quickest 15 minutes Ive ever spent on upper ball joints. Lowers just press out or you can beat them with a sledge if your really hard up. Throwing a few ( 3 ) small tack welds on the lowers doesnt hurt either if your concerned about putting them in by yourself.No "BETTY CROCKER'' ready made cars here, everything here is made from scratch , the ground up.....build it , dont buy it
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