Thread: backspacing, deep look?

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Originally posted by pro70z28
Well ................ I guess they found out who day' were messin' wit' HUH

I gotta shut down now soz' I can get the printer fired up B4 da' boss catches me playin' a ... round.

Pro60Chevy, it will dissapear time after time all you do is go to the style and click on the same one you have again or whatever one you wan't and it comes back... Well never mind I know you fixed it already but just to let you know. That happens to me sometimes as well, I don't know why it does that.

I think it has to do with terrorists somehow.

Talking about terrorists, on this appetite 4 destruction site (they make videos of crazy stuff), there was something on there about like Iraqis or terrorists and they hacked the site and messed it up with all this allah (sp) crap. Pretty crazy.

Like Lord A I'm not familiar with strictly racing apps, but the ROT for backspacing in ref to wheel scrub is half the width of the wheel plus one inch. So 12" rim would meen a 7" backspace for healthy scrub on street.

So far, I havent looked at any pics of your rear yet Pro, but I managed to get a measurement from the gear shop. The 9 inch I bought was from a Lincoln Versailles and he measured it from axle flange to axle flange and returned me the number of 57.5 inches. A stock first gen is 60 inches I believe...anyone please correct me if I am wrong. SO, it seems that I don't have to narrow it at all, I have already had a Auburn Pro Cone installed with larger bearings and axles. So now that I have already got the third member and length straigtened away, I just have to get the 4 link installed sometime. Any suggestions on a 4 link that likes to turn corners and not burn too much rubber off the line? AND just for the sake of saying it, I think for the right stance and width of my rims and the 'already' shortened rearend my backspacing would have to be 5.25 inches on an 11 inch rim, which is effectively 12 inches from outer edge to edge, while 11 is the distance between bead seat to seat. Given that, the frontspacing would be 5.75 inches deep (on 11 inch) or effectively 6.25 inches deep from the actual outer edge of the rim. NOW, how does that sound to all you? BTW thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

OH, and not to mention that the frontspacing of 5.75 or 6.25 is to the flange or hub mounting plate, SO AGAIN one must reduce or subtract the width of the actual center cap or rim spokes, whatever you wanna call it, to get the actual depth that you would 'see'. I think that this depth will be great in my situation.

Originally posted by 1stGenCamaro
So far, I havent looked at any pics of your rear yet Pro, but I managed to get a measurement from the gear shop.

Mine is 36'' from axle flange to axle flange. A second gen. quarter panel takes a purdy' good angle inward at the top so, my tires end up about an inch from the quarter panel at the top.

I think an inch is the ROT for spacing from the tire to the fender as well, however, I shouldnt have to worry too much about the fender rubbing when it comes inward because my tires just won't be near that height. I did look at your pics though, I see there is some work to do, but was wondering, where do you normally mount the link bars on the car, I would imagine the frame, since the floor isn't quite as strong as a boxed frame...but where abouts on the frame, or is this more of a 'get a 4 link, gotta backhalf it' thing or highly recommended anyway.

Originally posted by 1stGenCamaro
I think an inch is the ROT for spacing from the tire to the fender as well, however, I shouldnt have to worry too much about the fender rubbing when it comes inward because my tires just won't be near that height. I did look at your pics though, I see there is some work to do, but was wondering, where do you normally mount the link bars on the car, I would imagine the frame, since the floor isn't quite as strong as a boxed frame...but where abouts on the frame, or is this more of a 'get a 4 link, gotta backhalf it' thing or highly recommended anyway.

A camaro from the firewall back is essentially a unibody so you have to build or buy a back half assembly to support the 4 link suspension. This is mine. I am building a full chassis, but this same back half can be installed with "frame connectors" to attach it to the front subframe. Chris Alston Chassisworks (and others) have publications that show step by step how it's done.

Good call, I should do that instead of having someone try to make one from scratch who may not even be that good. I knew that they are unibodies and I had planned on frame connectors, so that isn't a surprise, I think it is best to buy the parts or related parts and assemble it rather than build and assemble, using the car as a model to work with...means excessive shop time. Thanks for the help, I guess I should be able to pick up my rear end from the gear shop soon and take the whole thang to the chassis shop. At current time, what kind of price am I lookin at for this, including what you think labor would be...not that it matters much, I'm doin it anyways.

Under 1g for back half frame. It will go over 1g by the time you get all the little stuff. You have the housing already so that will cut that cost.
check out www.artmorrison.com or www.cachassisworks.com

Awesome, thanks for the tips and the sites, I am also glad to hear it won't cost too much, I 'just' might need that money for the rest of the car...