Thread: drive shaft pinion angle
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10-29-2004 05:43 AM #16
I'm leaning towards the leaf springs now because of cost. The only weld in part is for the brackets on the housing that the leafs connect to. I didn't think this would warp as it's pretty heavy steel. What if I only go about an inch at a time and let it cool?
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11-01-2004 09:29 AM #17
What if I only go about an inch at a time and let it cool?Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-02-2004 08:54 AM #18
back to pinion angle
I know we've kind of strayed from the original topic, but I wanted to interject one last thing.
Since I won't be getting a tranny for a while, I was thinking of fabricating a plate to bolt onto the back of the bellhousing with a tubular extension protruding perpendicular to it. This will act as my drive shaft for all intensive purposes so that I can see where the shaft will end up.
Is this the right idea?
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11-02-2004 10:42 AM #19
the only reason I thought to do that is because my garage has a significant slope to it and the car is not level. It would be tough to get it level so that the protractor worked right.
I suppose I could figure out the slope of the frame on the garage floor and factor that into my angles.
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11-02-2004 10:58 AM #20
Originally posted by tcodi
the only reason I thought to do that is because my garage has a significant slope to it and the car is not level. It would be tough to get it level so that the protractor worked right.
I suppose I could figure out the slope of the frame on the garage floor and factor that into my angles."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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11-02-2004 11:27 AM #21
I think I'm gonna try to put some concrete lintels under the jack stands in the front. The only problem is that I'll have to get it up so high to make it level that my floor jack won't have enough travel.
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11-02-2004 11:38 AM #22
Yow. how far off is the floor?"PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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11-02-2004 12:02 PM #23
It is probably 6 inches from front to back slope.
But you have to keep in mind that there is no rear axle on the car
now to put jacks under, so I have to put them on frame rails. Plus I need the back up enough to get an axle under there with enough room to work (the back of the car is on the high side of the garage). So in order to get the front high enough to level it I would have to get the thing WAY up, It's already just about as high as it goes. I'll figure something out with Lintels, they are basically solid blocks of concrete (not like worthless cinder blocks) so they should do the trick.
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11-02-2004 12:27 PM #24
Originally posted by tcodi
It is probably 6 inches from front to back slope.
But you have to keep in mind that there is no rear axle on the car
now to put jacks under, so I have to put them on frame rails. Plus I need the back up enough to get an axle under there with enough room to work (the back of the car is on the high side of the garage). So in order to get the front high enough to level it I would have to get the thing WAY up, It's already just about as high as it goes. I'll figure something out with Lintels, they are basically solid blocks of concrete (not like worthless cinder blocks) so they should do the trick.
To me half the fun of workin' on a project is makin' what ya' got work. Necessity is the mother of invention ....... or sumthin' like that."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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Getting closer on this project. What a lot of work!
Stude M5 build