Thread: Money If you ain't got it, can you still have fun?

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Well just got a price quote on removing the unibody frame and building a new solid tubbed frame for my 65 Ranchero.
Of course this price is for a narrowed rear end included.
$20,000 what! I'm in the wrong business.
Well now I get to have fun building my first frame!
Then if i don't get it right, I'll have fun going sideways down the trac. See us poor guys know how to have fun too! HE! HE!
Any tips or advice on building your first frame. thanks.


~ Vegas ~

What I did was buy some chassis books. That is your best bet at first. I wan't to learn more though too but you get to the point to where no matter how much you read on it, it won't help, you just need to go out and do it. Learn about it as much as you can like what you can or should not do, etc. So Cal Speed Shop Chassis book is ok for older cars and mostly Fords, I was kind of happy with it in a way but not worth the money I don't think. I think Tex Smith makes a chassis book though, check that out.

Originally posted by vara4

Any tips or advice on building your first frame. thanks.


~ Vegas ~

I think it's well worth the time and money to build a jig. I built mine in a weekend with used steel from the local steel co. Bolt it down solid to the floor ... level and square. Mark out the center line, wheel base and track width front and back so you always have reference points to work from. I marked those lines with snap lines. I made kerf cuts in the jig so the snap lines would not move and I could replace them in the SAME spot if one got cut. (And they have). Then I hang plumb bobs from the rear housing & front end. I cut several oak rail spacers and put a kerf cut dead center on all of them. Then I clamp the spacers between the rails and hang a plumb bob down to the centerline snap line. I bought several plumb bob's and keep them in place all the time, so if something gets bumped out of square I know it right away. First thing I do before I work on the car is walk around and check all the plumb bob's to make sure nothing has been disturbed.

thanks FMX for the tips onthe books.
Pro70z28 are you talking about table type or some othr type jigg.
I'm really not sure how to set this up.

~ Vegas ~
PS
This is the type set up I want to do. Need to find out how to order the springs the right height and where I can order the Eye bolts and rods from to tie the rear end to frame. I can make the plates.

http://www.baychassisworks.co.nz/pic...sis%20shot.jpg

Originally posted by vara4

Pro70z28 are you talking about table type or some othr type jigg.
~ Vegas ~


http://www.baychassisworks.co.nz/pic...sis%20shot.jpg

I just built it as a frame with pads for the wheels. I didn't go with the solid table top type figuring I would have better access to the chassis this way?? As long as it's solid and square I think it will work O.K. I check it from time to time for level.

I have a chassisworks instruction guide that uses only chalk marks on the floor. I went with the jig, because I knew it would be a long term project and I wanted something to keep loose and tack welded parts in place, long term.

Sweet Pro70z28; thanks for the pic, gives me a better idea of how to set it up now. I would like to build a car rack like Dave S.
too so I can roll the car over, sand blast every thing to repaint every thing as well. But that's after the new Frame is built.
How far along is your car now, getting close?


~ Vegas ~

I have some "honey-dew" projects going now. I'm waiting for the fiberglass front end to get here so I can double check front wheel placement. Then I can go ahead. I have enough stuff bought to keep me busy at least through the winter.

This is where I'm at today. The front struts are jigged up @ "Close" to the right caster camber. Ready to screw in place once I get final measurements for track width. It looks way further along than it is. This is just a dry run getting ready to assemble the cage.

I think a rack to turn the completed chassis is a good idea too. Sure beats crawlin' around to get at hard to reach stuff.

You can make a pretty good rotisserie for a frame with an engine stand and a hoist. I bolted the rear crossmember to two points on the engine stand. Then, I put a single bolt through a piece of DOM tubing to the front crossmember. The indexing on the engine stand lets me rotate 45 degrees at a time.

The front pivot needs to be higher than the back pivot because of the upward angle of the engine stand axis.

There are some photos on this site:

http://www.members.cox.net/otb_vigil...etrod/rod.html

That's a good idea. Multi purose tools.

Dave Severson's got a nice chassis turning rack that he built.
What I need it for is so after I have the body all taken apart,
I can sand blast every thing and clean it for painting. and it will be alot easier to roll it over and paint it. Of course there will be no glass, doors ,seats, just the shell. Not sure how much weight
one of these can hold. I've gotta ask dave about that. My 65 Ranchero will be more show then go being that it will be street driven. I would also like to find a fiber glass front end so I can make it tilt forward. I want everyone to take three looks instead of two. You Guy'sknow what I mean. When that hood tilt's open they will be looking at my shiny 351 Cleveland roller motor that I
allready have in my garage and looking for a new home!
I also have a small block C- 6 on the shelf to back up the Cleveand with. Still need to get a narrowed Rear end, I would like a Dana 60 not a ford that robs power. Lots of stuff investigate about yet, mostly front ends and paints. Need a paint that won't chip the first time a little rock pops up an hits it. Or maybe I should just put a nice rubber under coating? I need some good advice on these too. See guy's I need lots of help and advice on your experience's Thanks


~ Vegas ~