Thread: 69 Nova Front Suspension Advice

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Hi all -

Rebuilding my first car.
113 Vin 114 Cowl tag 1969 Nova, with an older (oil spout in manifold) 283 (or so the seller says). Its a SBC for sure with a 2bbl carb.
Low geared 4 speed, or rear-end (corners very easily in 3rd gear).
The seller actually thought it was a 3 speed and was taking off in 2nd gear for who know how long.

Usage will be a mild cammed weekend cruiser.

First - replace with rubber or new high dollar bushings?
Second - I need a good (stiff is better) shock recommendation.
Third - How do I know if the springs need replacement?
Fourth - No front sway bar or linkage. Is this normal on some models? I suppose I should add that!

I plan to do the tie-rod ends, pittman, idler arm etc next, then on to the rear end. Then the fun begins with a motor rebuild.

Thanks - Bert Boswell

I would recommend rubber for a softer, quite ride.

shocks-I buy NAPA's best, but it depends if you want a soft or firm ride. Why not contact a shock mfg & tell them your requirements?

springs-the springs only need replacing if the car is sagging.

swap bar-all had a sway bar.

Originally posted by SBC
Hi all -

Rebuilding my first car.
113 Vin 114 Cowl tag 1969 Nova, with an older (oil spout in manifold) 283 (or so the seller says). Its a SBC for sure with a 2bbl carb.
Low geared 4 speed, or rear-end (corners very easily in 3rd gear).
The seller actually thought it was a 3 speed and was taking off in 2nd gear for who know how long.

Usage will be a mild cammed weekend cruiser.

First - replace with rubber or new high dollar bushings?
Second - I need a good (stiff is better) shock recommendation.
Third - How do I know if the springs need replacement?
Fourth - No front sway bar or linkage. Is this normal on some models? I suppose I should add that!

I plan to do the tie-rod ends, pittman, idler arm etc next, then on to the rear end. Then the fun begins with a motor rebuild.

Thanks - Bert Boswell

for a weekend cruiser-
first- rubber bushings
second- gas shocks
third- if you like the way it sits and it dont bottom out its ok.
fourth- not all cars have them, if it came with one i would wont it, if it didnt, dont worry about it.

Originally posted by SBC
Hi all -

First - replace with rubber or new high dollar bushings?
Second - I need a good (stiff is better) shock recommendation.
Third - How do I know if the springs need replacement?
Fourth - No front sway bar or linkage. Is this normal on some models? I suppose I should add that!

I plan to do the tie-rod ends, pittman, idler arm etc next, then on to the rear end. Then the fun begins with a motor rebuild.

Thanks - Bert Boswell

Sounds like a great first project Bert. While you are in that front end mode you should definitely do the ball joints as well. If you are gonna pull the A-Arms to change the bushings, that's a perfect time to replace the ball joints. You could even take the whole control arms to a front end shop and have them press everything in and out for you. Would probably cost you .5 to 1 hour of labor, but sure would save you a lot of time and busted knuckles.

Once you get it all back together, take it straight to the alignment shop, do not pass go etc etc....

Good luck and be careful, those springs pack a powerful punch. FYI Autozone has front end tools like spring compressors and ball joint seperators (pickle fork) that they loan out for free.

Pat

Welcome, Bert. Sounds like you have a very nice project started, and congrats on going to work on an area (suspension) that most overlook till way later, if at all. Might also want to consider the brakes while you are up there, either a quality rebuild of the brake system, or maybe a conversion to discs if it is a drum brake front. Keep us updated as you go, and post some pics if you have some.

Thanks for the replies,

I'm sticking with the $5.99 bushings, will buy quality gas shocks and I have a buddy to press the bushings.

I am doing ball joints also although they are still good, the grease cups are blown out and it makes sense with it all apart.

Although I can see the need for more stopping power, I considered disc brakes but it seemed a bit aggressive for me at this point with new lines and power booster etc.

The only error I made was not removing the shock completely, instead leaving it attached at the lower beacuse of the difficulty in getting a backup wrench on the bolts.

The other side should go a lot easier.

Bert