Thread: Buggy Rear Spring Suspension

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I hope we have some old hot rodders that can help me on this one. My 32 3WDW has a Buggy Spring Suspension in the rear with a "35" Ford split wishbone. The rear spring and shocks are a package from Pete and Jakes. When I purchased the car it had the original shocks from Pete and Jakes in it. The travel was so much that it kept bottoming out and hitting the snubbers on the frame. In an effort to improve the ride and stop the slamming of the rear axle into the frame, I put on a set of overloads. This did cure that problem but created another. The car now bangs whenever I go over a bump of moderate height (the bump doesn't have to be more than an inch or two). This last weekend I removed the rear spring and shocks to see what kind of magic I could work. It amounted to a lot of work with no success. Is there a cure for this? It's like the shock is not compressing or reacting quick enough on the return because the rear end is to light. If I go to a standard shock, the rear will simply compress to the frame snubbers again. Do I simply run with a loaded trunk or what????

Anybody have any solutions. Thanks for your help.

Reflog

I'll have to admit that I'm a little confused. If the housing travels far enough to bottom on the frame snubbers, then you don't have enough spring in the car. The shocks have nothing to do with the weight-carrying capabilities of the car and are only there as linear de-accelerators. Unless, of course, if they're wrapped with a spring themselves as with an overload shock.

What happens when you remove the shocks altogether and drive the car? If it bottoms, it needs more spring.

It also sounds like the original shocks may be bottoming due to limited travel.

Put more spring in it if it bottoms without shocks, then adapt shocks with sufficient travel.

Sounds like at first it want stiff enough and now you got it to stiff. You could almost get by with the shocks overload springs by them selves. how much travel do you have between the snubber and the stop? I don't think you will be able to run those overload springs though. take those overloads off and raise the car a few inches.

Originally posted by techinspector1
I'll have to admit that I'm a little confused. If the housing travels far enough to bottom on the frame snubbers, then you don't have enough spring in the car. The shocks have nothing to do with the weight-carrying capabilities of the car and are only there as linear de-accelerators. Unless, of course, if they're wrapped with a spring themselves as with an overload shock.

What happens when you remove the shocks altogether and drive the car? If it bottoms, it needs more spring.

It also sounds like the original shocks may be bottoming due to limited travel.

Put more spring in it if it bottoms without shocks, then adapt shocks with sufficient travel.

Thanks for your reply. When I had the original shocks on the vehicle the travel would allow the rear axle to come up enough to hit the rear snubbers on the frame. When I installed the overloads I now have the problem that the shocks stay extended and I believe they are not reacting quickly enough to allow a smooth transition when the axle tries to return to its original position, which causes the rear end to bang. This is an original 32 buggy spring with (I think) two leaves pulled out of it. I don't have the leaves that were pulled and I don't want to buy a new rear spring from Posie due to the cost. Would like to try to cure what I have if possible. I think going to a gas shock would help but I am not sure what ratio I should use. 60/40; 70/30; etc.

Reflog

Originally posted by lt1s10
Sounds like at first it want stiff enough and now you got it to stiff. You could almost get by with the shocks overload springs by them selves. how much travel do you have between the snubber and the stop? I don't think you will be able to run those overload springs though. take those overloads off and raise the car a few inches.

It sets somewhere between 3" to 4" from the axle housing to the frame snubber. If I raise the car to much farther it will have and enormous rake on it. Not an option for me. I have small tires on the front now to get the front down. I have larger tires on the rear to fill the rear fenders and make the car look like a rod. My only option as I see it is to cure the problem with either a new rear spring or shocks. Since shocks are cheaper, I would like to go this way. Will check with a guy in Mpls/St Paul area who has worked with 32's and their suspensions. Maybe he can give some ideas. Thanks for your help.

Reflog

you need to keep in mind, shocks do not hold up weight, you dont want to put gas shocks on it , they will only make it worse. if your have 3 to 4 " travel then you need a stiffer spring, but not as much as the overload shocks gave you.

Originally posted by lt1s10
you need to keep in mind, shocks do not hold up weight, you dont want to put gas shocks on it , they will only make it worse. if your have 3 to 4 " travel then you need a stiffer spring, but not as much as the overload shocks gave you.

Got the same reply from Jason at Pete and Jakes. Says the spring is the key to all of this. Wants me to take it out and have it tested. May have to add a couple of leafs or get another spring for the car. Spendy if I do that. Thanks for your input. I am learning something from all of this.

Reflog

Originally posted by reflog
Got the same reply from Jason at Pete and Jakes. Says the spring is the key to all of this. Wants me to take it out and have it tested. May have to add a couple of leafs or get another spring for the car. Spendy if I do that. Thanks for your input. I am learning something from all of this.

Reflog

this is what its all about.