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Thread: front suspension rebuild questions
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    slow ride is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Mar 2005
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    Appleton
    Car Year, Make, Model: '90 Chevy S-10 Blazer
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    33

    front suspension rebuild questions

     



    After adding the big block and a full interior I've made the S-10 Blazer pretty freakin' portly. I'm adding some aluminum bits under the hood and doing a gut reduction, but I'm also thinking about rebuilding the 150,000+ mile front suspension and shaving a few pound while I'm at it.

    For all of you hardcore "street" car guys...

    What are you opinions on poly bushings vs. spherical rod ends for control arms? Will the ride quality be really shitty? Will one bind more than the other? Are the rod ends worth the extra $100?? Or would delrin be a better upgrade for $75? I'm still debating the upcharge for Chrome moly tubing.

    What is the consensus on how much more beneficial removing unsprung weight is vs sprung weight? I've read anywhere from 2:1 all the way up to 8:1

    Anyone have experience with QA1 Proma star 12 way single adjustable shocks?

    Since I don't plan on ever "class" racing. What are the benefits to a coilover setup in the front, besides ride height adjustment?

    What about the Torrington thrust washer/needle bearing kit for height adjustment? Is it worth the extra $$$$?

    Yes I will still be using the cast iron 2" drop spindles and stock type cast iron brake rotors, but with SSBC aluminum 2 piston calipers. My old 60' style 15 x 3.5" slotted mags will be on there at least one more season if I spend the cash on this suspension rebuild.

    Opinions???

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jul 2003
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    Bushings are the only way to go on the street. The spherical bearing stuff is ok on a drag car or an occasional use car, but hanging out there in the elements day after day on the street is really hard on them. Also, they will wear out faster then poly bushings, they will contribute some harshness to the ride, and they are noisy!!

    Coilovers are nice, they make tuning the suspension much easier. I would imagine coil springs and shocks will last a lot longer though. Torrington bearings make adjustments easier, but again probably not a good deal on a driver. Dirt, dust, and water will kill them quickly.

    Never have use QA's, can't help you there.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Apr 2004
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    Little Elm
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    If you go with poly bushings, get the ones that are graphite impregnated . . . unless you enjoy the sound of constant squeaking.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  4. #4
    slow ride is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Mar 2005
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    Appleton
    Car Year, Make, Model: '90 Chevy S-10 Blazer
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    33

    Well I just ordered the QA1 coilovers and Global West upper and lower control arms. I also ordered the rest of the parts for the engine update. $2300 today plus the $1650 I already spent plus I still need my converter and master cylinder. I really blew the budget this year.

  5. #5
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jul 2003
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    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Yup, and the block I want for the Ranchero is over $3,000.00, it never ends.......
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

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