Thread: best budget suspension set up?

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Man, you struck gold. Underneath all that dirt and dust is a real gem. Just hosing it off will make a world of difference, and it looks like it is pretty solid.

For starters, you can sell that engine and trans to someone fixing up a Chevy of that year, who wants matching numbers. Or sell it to a rat rodder, they love these old engines. (but don't wash off the dirt, they call it "patina." )

Not sure how deep you want to get into the build, or your capabilities, but you could either lift the body off and clean up and refit the frame and suspension, or simply clean up everything with the body intact. Frame off would be best, but it takes some work and lots of room to do it. Take pictures of every aspect of the car before you tear it down, and as you are tearing it down, for reference.

I envy you, this is a really historic piece and well worth doing. Gotta get ready for work, so have to run. If you have any more questions or more pix as you proceed, just post them.


Don

it's in old primer (with the original paint underneath ) so even when dusted off it doesn't look much better, but it is pretty solid...just some minor surface rust here and there...no major rust as far as I can tell but I fear there is a good bit of bondo as it's cracked in places so I'll see exactly how it looks when the time comes.

The 283 will sit off to the the side for a while with the extra manifold with 3 duces waiting for a '32 in the future (what my dad wanted but couldnt afford back when he got the '35)...should probably sell it for money for the '35 but o well

Unfortunately I won't have room to be able to have the body off, but I should be able to work around that.

I appreciate all the help so far...I'm sure I'll be posting many more questions in the future...thanks!

Lucky you, your dad has left you a great car. You can certainly make a driver out of it. You will not be able to use much of your Camero stuff without getting into a fair amount of dollars. You CAN build a neat old car for not nearly as many dollars. Try to find the street rodders in your area, preferably some of the older ones. You have the basis for a neat car with most of the parts you need on hand, it would appear. Believe me, lots of good solid driving cars were built with what you have in your garage. Sell the late model Camero stuff and use that money to fund refurbishment of what you have IMO. There are mods you can use to lower the front of your car and retain the original axle. Research, research, research is the answer. There is someone in your area that would love to mentor your process, you just have to look untill you find that person.

slowpoke is right, you have no idea what a great start this car is. Even just rebuilding what is there and straightening out some of the rough spots will yield you a very nice driver, with a family history.


Don

Put some 550/15's on the front, it'll set pretty low. Actually I think that old size translates to P175/185 these days.

what exactly are the options for lowering the front without a new axle? I'm not going to get crazy with the CamAro () parts...just mainly the rear w/discs and the engine/tranny will make it's way in there. I feel using that stuff will get the car on the road quicker instead of rebuilding the old stuff. I've been looking into the engine swap for some time now and have a pretty good idea of how to go about it.

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Buy a new axle. They cost about $ 200 and not only get you down there in short order, but are safer than one that has been on the road for years. The kingpin holes can also be egg shaped in older axles, requiring repair.

Your other option is a new spring with reversed eyes, but this only nets you 1 inch, nowhere near the 4 inches you will pickup with a dropped axle. 4 inches will set that '35 nice and low.


Don

Just a reminder, a 4 inch drop axle will net about 2 inches (stockers have what would be the equivalent of a 2" "drop") Also with a 4" drop axle the steering arms need to be dropped (either bent or replaced with pre-bent ones). As Don says it's the way to go, the standard setup is both the reversed eye spring and dropped axle. Go to Posies; http://www.posiesrodsandcustoms.com/...slide_springs/ download the catalog and look at the "In-da-dirt" "kit" for an idea of what parts are involved. From there you choose how you want to replicate what he puts together.

Or for a true low buck effort some of the bolt on AMC spinles from the 70's can be adapted. I know that some will poh-poh the idea, but I know of two 40's with this mod that have many miles on them. You can also use a mono leaf spring, or reverse the spring eyes on the original if it is in good shape. When did your Dad do this car? Do you have any more info as to modifications. Some better shots of the car and the undercarriage would reveal more info as to what you are starting with. Joe

I remember seeing articles on how to do the AMC spindle thing. They are a bolt on design, and you cut off you existing Ford spindle ends, make a steel adapter plate, and bolt on the AMC stuff. Only fly in the ointment today might be that AMC's of that era are probably not as plentiful in junkyards as they used to be, so getting the components to do it would maybe be a little tough.

It also had the benefit of dropping the front end a little, as you mounted the new spindle up the adapter plate a little from the stock ford location

I have some info on performing such a mod if you would like a copy. I really don't remember how many years they used that set up, but think it was quite some time.

everytime i think i have it figured out something else comes up lol

everytime i think i have it figured out something else comes up lol
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Sure, that happens to all of us. Just two weeks ago I was looking at the Olds engine in my '39 Dodge and thinking maybe I would put it into the T bucket I am building instead of the 350 Chevy I had planned on using, but then my Kid bought me some nice polished aluminum valve covers for the Vortec, so now it is going to have the Chevy in it. Plans change all the time as a car build progresses.........the finished car rarely ends up exactly as you envisioned it at the onset. It kind of evolves.

Here is what you have to do though. JUST GET STARTED. Here is what I would do.

1) Decide if you are really going to build this car. Start committing your time and space to the build.

2) Wash the car to get those years of grime off of it. Scrub the engine, interior, trunk, body.........everything. Even if you aren't going to use something like the engine, clean the engine and compartment anyway. It will give you a better look at what you have and what you need.

3) Now pull up a comfortable chair, a cold brew, and have a good, long look at the car. What do you like about it and what do you not like? (i.e: does it sit too high, how about the color, etc.)

4) Get an idea in your head about the THEME of the car you want it to be. You will hear people on here talking about theme all the time. What that means is, for example, if you are building it to follow the look of cars built in the 1950's, you DO NOT put a chain steering wheel on it, or 20 inch wheels.

5) Start a "build book." I like those notebooks with the pockets in them, because I can throw the receipts in there for parts I have bought for the project. Make a page for "frame" one for "front suspension" etc. On those pages, put down what you think you need to do to get the car to be the way you want. None of this has to be set in stone, as you will adjust and compromise as the build progresses, but it give you a starting point.

6) Now start actual work. If this requires a complete tear down, pull the engine, trans, front fenders, hood, running boards, etc and store them away.
I like to use milkcrates, and plastic food storage bags to keep parts and fasteners in. I label each bag with the contents, such as "right front fender bolts." You may not use them, but at least you have them for future reference. Do not just throw stuff in a heap and think you will remember what goes where, you won't remember any of it 6 months from now.

7) Take pictures of every aspect of the car before, during, and after teardown. You will want to know how the hood hinges go back on, and the best way to do that is to have pictures to refer to.

8) JUST GET STARTED. You can chew on the possibilities of building this car forever, but once you start to actually tear into it the final product will become more clear in your mind. Right now you are getting information overload, and that is good and also it is bad. Start on the car and you will reject some of the ideas given and keep others.

9) Keep a positive attitude, don't rush it, count on problems coming up, devote more time and money than you think you will, and finally, HAVE FUN. Keep in mind this is a hobby, not a job, so make it fun and not a burdon. Do it at your own pace. My '27 took 6 years, my Sons '29 is in it's 2nd year (and he was working for 15 to 20 hours a day on it for months) They take time.

Let us know how it is coming and post pix and questions that arise.


Don

Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe

everytime i think i have it figured out something else comes up lol

That's called learning. Right now you're in that phase where you don't know what you don't know.

Don shares some very good ideas in the post above, and while I agree with what he says I would add that you may need to spend some more time learning what you're getting into. Since you don't have to drive this car out of necessity a tear down won't hurt you in that sense, but if you blow it apart and then don't have the time/money/knowledge/whatever to follow through you may end up with a problem if you have to move, lose the storage, can't do work there, whatever. Experienced rodders always make out by buying blown apart projects that went nowhere because the seller can't sell an immobilized derelict for as much as a rolling one.

Listen to Uncle Bob and Don, you can't go wrong. Joe