Thread: I have questions rebuilding a Mll in my truck

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I am rebuilding (quickly and possibly temporarally) the Mll in my 46 Chevy truck. It is a stock setup from the mustang not an aftermarket remake.
Today I replaced all the rubber and metal bushings on both control arms and the ball joints. These joints pivot on the rubber? no lubrication? Is this where the squeek comes from in front ends sometimes?

Next - The power rack is not hooked up and I am not going to hook it up. Manual steering is just fine with me. How long can I use this power rack with out it being hooked up? If I have to replace it right now I will, but I thought if I could do some other things first ( like any one of a hundred needed items) I would just use it as it is for a while.

Last. The steering shaft has 3 knuckles that have a little play and I have decided to just rebuild the whole column. I have found the high dollar replacement stuff with splines and what not. I am a decent fabricator and thought there might be some place to buy cheeper but safe knuckles, maybe not chrome or stainless maybe weld-on , you know budget, but safe? Any thoughts? Any suppliers?

Thanks -M

A bit of grease on the ends of the busings on the lower arms and on the thru bolts will help get rid of some of the squeeks, on the top arms a little where they go on the shaft. As for the
joints in the colum, I use Borgeson. They're expensive but very high quality....

...............and it's highly recommended you not weld the joints on, the heat has a high probability of damaging the bearings and seals. If you don't go with the splined ones then roll pin them, two pins per collar, 90 degree separation.

You may be able to use some from an Astro van, but only if they are very low miler. The new ones would probably cost as much as Flaming River or Borgeson.......either of which would be my choice as with Dave.

Not what I wanted to hear on the joints, but good advice, Thanks. I guess I will just bite the bullit and use the splined, that seems like it would be the best for phasing as well.

Any tips on the power rack used manually?

-M

Did you leave some fluid in it and hook the pressure and return ports together or just cap the fittings??? Either way, it will eventually cause failure of the rack and is probably harder steering then just a manual rack. I would be for replacing it with a manual rack. Last one I sold went for $180 or thereabouts...... Along with the splined joints and shafts, a worthwhile investment IMO..

......and just some additional comments on the joints. The other alternative to the splined is the double-D, they're a no brainer on the phasing, but there are times when the angles produced in routing the shaft(s) can cause slight bind even with "perfect" phasing and not over angled. In those instances a one or two spline "out of phase" actually can work better..........can't do that with a double-D.

Thanks Uncle Bob, I sure love the help. I did read that about the splined joints that a knotch or two out of phase could solve a hard spot. I still like to ask the guys doing it cause people know stuff.

Now I am going to go to the brake forum and post a question on my master cylinder and brake booster. When I get through this project and get done asking dumb questions I can help answer them.

Thanks again -M