Thread: parallels and coilovers?

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I am looking to add coilovers to my parallels and saw some spring plates at Speedway. Am wondering if there is a stouter or better lower support option out there. With the lowering blocks (I know, I know, Bad, Bad ) that are on there an axle mounted support would move the coilover to high above the Z in the frame. I liked the idea of the coilover mounting plate at the parallel but theirs look wimpy. Anybody have experience with rearend coilovers in conjuction with parallels?

Back to the top with this one.

Okay Justin, I thought someone else might take this one, but.......

Not sure why you're aiming to do this. Seems like a chance to be "over sprung". And also not sure the context of your "coilover mounting plate at the parallel" remark. Can you elaborate?

Justin, I`m just a little confused. You have a 4 link AND lowering blocks??? Please tell me you don`t still have leaf springs on your ride. There are many people out there that can set you up w/ the coil overs(Berry Fabrication floydjer@msn.com) Feel free to call and we can get you on target. CORDially J.B.

I have parallel leafs with 4" of lowering blocks(no 4 link, just lonely tired parallels). There are no more shocks due to the lowering. There are aftermarket plates that attach to the bottom of the parallels to hold the U-bolts and axle in place with a protruding mount for shocks. that way the shock is not 4" higher like the axle. I have a cross brace to mount the top of the shocks across the Z in the frame wich was made for axle clearance. Are coilovers overkill, should I just use regular shocks? There will be a panhard bar for sway due to the amount of lowering blocks. What happens with "oversprung".

Heres the product for mounting shocks at the leaf height.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm

Justin, Thank goodness you cleared that up. Just raise the upper shock mount to get the travel back. DO NOT add coil overs to the mix. You will have one stiff riding car. Remember to keep the shocks within 10 degrees of perpendiclular so they can effectively work. Would not worry too much about the mount as 95 percent of the shock load will be absorbed by the springs. CORDially Jerry

To add to Jerry's comment on "oversprung", it'll knock your teeth out!

I don't have a vision of your stock shock mounting so I may not understand the issue. Typically, if you raised the axle with the lowering blocks, and the shocks mount to the bottom plate that clamps the spring (similar to the Speedway piece you referenced) the relationship of the lower and upper mounts would remain the same as original, so the shock length shouldn't need to be changed. If the shocks mount to the axle housing instead, then the raised upper mounting points as Jerry suggested would be the better choice. The one point I would make is the strength of the upper mount could be important if there ever were the chance for the shock bottoming out.

I'm not the best at splainin' things and my typing is even less effective. So while consentatin on the little letters under my smashed digits i get lost, haha. Had a chuckle tho with yer sigh o relief as to my contraption Thanks fer the feedback Jerry, BBB. Have an idea as to finding my shock position. If I jack the axle to the top of its travel and find my 10 degree position then let the axle down and make sure the shock is not past 0. is this a good theary. What I dont want to happen is the shock to bind or "lockout" in a Neg (past perpindicular) position from axle movement, Correct? Or is travel so limited that wont be a problem. I guess what I'm askin is should 10 degeree be measured at the top of it's travel where the shock is at it's most severe angle or measure 10 degree at ride height (laden)?

Yeah BBB, the stock was axle mount and the plate (or lower stock position) is what I'm trying to achieve. With the frame Z'd for axle clearance the upper shock mounts where lost as well. Good point about the shock ever bottoming out. I am going to take some triple measurements on that one, Even if the cross member is strong enough I don't even want to imagine the sound or feeling of that happening. My brother did that to his front ranchero strut towers, tore the tops of the towers off and that thing was just sittin on cut mustang coil springs that would roll out of place every now and again.

Justin, You want the shocks @ 10 degrees +/_ from verticle. One last thought.... how about getting your local NAPA counter guy to cross reference shocks that use the same type mount that you now have, but with a shorter closed length. Just measure center to center on the shock w/ the car`s weight on the wheels and shoot for that distance at mid-travel. CORDially J.B. I have go back over to the A.A.C.A forum and rattle some cages!!!

Justin, If your shocks go over center, you have WAY too much shock length and a set-up I don`t want to know about. Go back a couple of posts and solve your problem CORDially Jerry

Thanks a bunch guys. Havent been in here in a bit due to the great CA super flu (they always mention it being worse than the year before) ya'd think they would prepare at the horspitles and such. Guess it's that season again. Feels like someone kicked my genders up inta my chest and the docs jus tell ya "wait it out 7-10 days ye''ll be fine. Anyone else gotten bit bye the flu bug this year? It don't shake off as easy, AND I AINT EVEN OLD!! Anyways God bless and good night, it's 4pm and the medicine is telling me its quittin time. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz