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Thread: any tips on building a 4 link for 66 GMC
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    twoblularry's Avatar
    twoblularry is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 gmc swb 327,turbo350
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    Question any tips on building a 4 link for 66 GMC

     



    Ive been thinking of building a 4 link for my swb GMC, any advice or suggestions?? I am a 20 year machinist and can make most anything, just need a basic Direction to aim for.
    thanks
    twoblu

  2. #2
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
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    The factory set -up is pretty good in those trucks.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawnlee28
    The factory set -up is pretty good in those trucks.
    That's what I was thinkin' too, but just in case you have the jitters to mess with it, here's a compilation of ideas from the mind of Billy Shope....
    http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope/

    Here's a link I stumbled onto, 'vette front and rear suspension for older cars/trucks. Maybe they have a kit for your truck or you could modify what they make....
    http://www.seattlestreetrods.com/cor...suspension.htm
    Last edited by techinspector1; 06-09-2007 at 02:19 PM.
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  4. #4
    twoblularry's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 gmc swb 327,turbo350
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    not sure if ya know but the GMC had leaf rear springs, mine has been lowered with a hot wrench. they resemble this, "["and since they have been heated and bent that I should replace them. stock springs new are around $400-$460 new, a set of coil over shocks are around the same so.. if I got to spend the Money might as well get what I want.......
    thtanks Larry

  5. #5
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    I did not know they had leafs........Whats your intended use for the truck?
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    I'd suggest a set of triangulated 4 bars, they eliminate the need for a Watt's linkage or panhard bar and with polyurethen ends they are very stable and work very well on the street... I'd build them with some DOM tubing, thick wall that will thread to 3/4" then use a 3/4" X 3/4" polybushed end. It's only necessary to have one end threaded for street use, I usually have the rear fixed and the front adjustable. Mount the coilovers on the back side of the rear end and keep them vertical as viewed from the side and no more then 30 degrees in at the top as viewed from the rear. I like mine in about 20 degrees at the top, makes for a good ride and still keeps the rear nice and stable.
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  7. #7
    twoblularry's Avatar
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    Well I bought it to play with, ya know,, drain the Wallet,keep me up all night, and last but not least a project for me and the wife to drive to car shows,poker runs, and such.
    I was into vintage trials bikes and owned two 1976 hondas both TL125 and TL250. I traded them for the truck when I had to have rotator cuff surgery.
    I also enjoy drag racing so the arkansas city race way is only 30 mins from here. I will be running it when I get my truck in order, fine tuned etc.
    thanks info
    twoblularry

  8. #8
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    My 55 has a 4 link. So does my 32.
    IMO- takes alot of work, time & money to get one dialed in right- especially a home built one.
    What motor? How much power? I see you want to drag race it.

    IMO- your best & cheapest option is reverse eye de-arched leafs. That will get you plenty low. I'm speaking from nearly 50 years of hot rod experience.

    If a 4 link is burned into your mind & there's no convincing you otherwise- Then do your homework. Mine is all pro built because w/ slicks & 700 hp- I tore the 1st one right out of the car. I have fully adjustable parallel 4 link w/ a diagonal link to keep it centered. Because the car is low (coilovers all the way around- no bags)- the driveshaft tunnel was pie cut & raised at rear & pockets had to be built for the top 2 bars because at ride height- they were above the floor under the rear seat. On the 32- only one end is adjustable & I use a Panhard bar for centering & a roll bar to keep the wheels on the road.
    My 4 link in the 55 was built by Williams Classic Chassis Works (all out drag race 4 link w/ many gussets & braces) & the 32 is TCI.


    Here's a few "kits" for trucks to look over.

    http://www.truckn-store.com/search.asp?search=4-link
    Last edited by Steves32; 07-06-2007 at 05:15 PM.

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