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Thread: 32 chev 5 window s10 blaser frame
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    Oldf100fordman's Avatar
    Oldf100fordman is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Ford F100 w/390,
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    Scott, I forgot a good frame thread when I gave you the links to Brian Rupnow's and Don's (Itoldyouso) threads. Last-call (Zack) has a decent frame changing/altering idea also. Here's the link:http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...875#post262875
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  2. #17
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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  3. #18
    oldrusty is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by lakota
    I can't believe the PO did that. What was he thinking. The S-10 frame is a front steer, the steering box is ahead of the axle. He cut the frame behind the steering box. The axle is a set back type. The front wheels are still set back to far. And that butcher job on the back end...What was he thinking!!!

    Anyways, you got a good body to start with. A good frame shouldn't be that hard to come by. If you have the tools and skills, you can make one. For a front axle, I think Fatman puts out a combination straight/IFS for the early 30's frames for under $600. Like I said, you got a good start. You'll just have to do something about those...er...blemishes.

    Im really not sure what the PO was thinking and it doesnt really matter lol . Frame has been cut it the front but the steering box is still there intact. im not sure of what the wheel base was originally for a 32 but yes the front wheels are too far back i figured i could fix that by moving the rear axle half a foot or so backwards. The engine will fit nicely in behind and below the S10 engine cradle crossmember. Mentioned earlier post of a taurus rear scratch that was thinking of the thunderbird independant rear. also thinking a early 70s style chev truck trailing arm might work too. Or maybe some ladderbars from the stock front spring mounts. As i said would like to concentrate on the body with the time that i have so a simple chassis setup would be good. Maybe i should put it away till funds and time permits. Still cant help but think about it. But then thats part of the process. thanks for your thoughts and help

  4. #19
    oldrusty is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    All this just opens more questions will the S10 rear end be strong enough it had a 4.3 before but it looks really tiny or should i look for something heavier. i do have a 64 and a 70 chevy 1/2 ton frames i could take out the trailing arm suspension complete and then i could adjust the wheelbase too by its placement position. but thinking that a setup with coils might be neat using a custom ladderbar like the pic. which would also allow this not sure how the pivot point works though is the rubber bushing enough movement at the leaf spring mount. too many things to think about.
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  5. #20
    godspeed32's Avatar
    godspeed32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 ford hiboy
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    my suggestion is yo remove the frame and toss it , you will never be happy with the out come of that all the mounting location are wrong , if you watch you can pickup a used or new frame . it will cost more on your build but when done you will never have to explain yourself ....why it looks the way it does . and like others said take your time there should be no time set to build a rod ...well i have to get to work on mine times running out lol
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  6. #21
    oldrusty is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    and the plot thickens lol opportunity exists to aquire a 81 vette rear complete with half of the frame (300.00) now we will have to build a frame whats the thoughts is this a good rear for this 32 chev? More of your thoughts please. thanks

  7. #22
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    It's going to be waaaaaay too wide... Will require shortened half shafts and some reworking on the other mount components. To be done RIGHT it will require a scratch built frame, either rectangular tubing or round tubing. Not a cheap or easy project. No idea what your skill levels are, but this would require some hi quality fabricating skills to be done correctly.
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  8. #23
    oldrusty is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    A quick check and it looks to be close in width to the S10 blazer rear (which im not sure how strong it really is it looks a bit skimpy) but you might be right about the fabrication it might be more than im willing to do at this time. Just happened to come across this option today. Im thinking some sort of ladderbar /trailing arm with coils will eliminate the leafsprings and stretch my wheelbase a few inches and get me rolling. i can save the radical stuff for later. More pondering chair i suppose thanks for your thoughts

  9. #24
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    It's not the worst mess I've seen, but is close!
    First, wheelbase is too short.... s-10 blazer is 100 inches, I think, and it looks like you'd need about 4 or 5 more inches. Next, If you are going to use a front steer chassis, you'll need to adapt r&p steering because the stock steering requires more frame ahead of the wheels than that body style will allow. Lastly, long, parallell leafs will apparently not fit under the body, so you'll need to come up with a different rear suspension scheme.
    If I had that little to work with, I'd probably compare wheelbase and trackwidth measurements with 32 ford (about 104 inch wheelbase, I think) and if about right, I would consider buying a complete, new chassis with traditional tranverse suspension.
    If I was just going to build a monster ratrod hack job, I'd probably drop the body on a 108 wheelbase, coil rear suspended GM metric chassis (mid eighties chevelle,cutlass,regal), which is a bit large in both trackwidth and wheelbase dimensions and would also need to be narrowed or made to look like runningboards. A tracknose might possibly conceal the stock steering.
    There has got to be less challenging projects out there that would assure a better outcome.
    Good luck

  10. #25
    oldrusty is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yes your right it is a little short, best i can find out maybe 7in from stock. I think i could get away with 5 maybe thinking im going to build some trailing arm /ladder bars to replace the stock springs and use some coils also moving the rear back a half foot while doing this. ill have to cross brace these or use a panhard or both. Biggest question is how much will the s10 rear take would hate to break it first time out. as for the front i figure with a stock or custom bumper and some creative tinwork i can make it respectable. This body is in really sad shape and been butchered by a few people but i think i can build something out of it. its not my intent to build it as all the other rods or in a traditional way. Challenge hmmm isnt that what its all about. Anyone can spend $$$$$ and buy enough parts to build a rod. The challenge is in building and creating. However the first step is to gather as much info as possible and consider if its even possible. thanks again

  11. #26
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Suburban, 69 Chevy Van, 91 Olds Wagon
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    Yes-
    Challenge is good! I'm in the middle of a Willys wagon highboy project that people tell me to rethink and start over.
    I'm putting it on an 83 cutlass chassis which will add 4" over the willys wheelbase, but I think a completely different and bitchin outcome is possible, so I'm moving forward with my plans.

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