Thread: Mustang II Install ??

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How difficult is a MII front to put in ?

Originally Posted by 53 Willys

How difficult is a MII front to put in ?

The hardest part for me was squaring the frame rails for spacing and being parallel. This assume you have good welding skills. The store bought cross members give good instructions.

Originally Posted by Ed Rodder

The hardest part for me was squaring the frame rails for spacing and being parallel. This assume you have good welding skills. The store bought cross members give good instructions.

Might have been the hardest part, but it is also the most important part!!!! Once the crossmember is squared up, tacked, welded, and gusseted about all that's left is bolting the rest of the pieces on. I've sold/installed many of them over the years, no problems with any of them...

If you follow the directions, it's not difficult at all. Most of the kits today have all of the problems worked out. Just measure, measure, measure. Tack it and measure again before you weld it up.

First off , before any MII install is X measure the frame first to see if its square ! I have see to many nice hot rods dog tracking down the road because they didnt find out if their frame was square . Or they did not use bracing across the rails to keep from warping ...... ect .

Its easier to fix an un-square frame in stock form then it is after all your cross member stuff and extra frame strengthening is done .

I used a TCI MII kit under my 37 ford , and the instructions were very well thought out and easy to follow , I had 1 question though that needed asked , and gave them a call , and they answered it in simple easy to understand answer .

I used a Weimer Rod Garage MII under my 29 Tudor.Pretty straightforward like everybody said.One thing to remember is to have your frame set at the finished rake angle when you weld it in.

It's best to fabricate everything at ride height on all four corners.

Originally Posted by gvette85

I used a Weimer Rod Garage MII under my 29 Tudor.Pretty straightforward like everybody said.One thing to remember is to have your frame set at the finished rake angle when you weld it in.

You said set frame at a finished rake angle...I understand that...but thats assuming a peron is going to have a raked stance only. Correct?

The point is that the frame needs to be in the final ride position before you do anything - rake or not.

Thanks for the replies. I've never done it before and am going to learn but unlike the old days I like to ask questions before I mess up.

Ok sitting at ride ht. The frame rails (front to back) are not level. Does the cross member go in with the rails or level to the ground?

The crossmember should be parallel to the ground with the frame sitting at ride height (front and rear).

Great advice.....another item to consider once the IFS is installed is the steering.

There are 2 R&P available, the original Must II & the T-bird R&P. Chose the T-bird( it's a slower ratio & removes some of the twitchiness from the steering. You can also buy a volumn reduction valve from several venders. I also set my caster at 6 degrees.
Don