Thread: Four Link Specifics Required

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If you're looking for ladder bars, this is a workable setup. Note how close to parallel the Panhard bar is. Also, there are heim ends on the bracket at the axle, and urethane bushed rod ends at the chassis mount.

If I were to do this again, I would use urethane bushed rod ends at all points. I would also set the ladder bars parallel to the frame. The angled setup causes real problems with exhaust routing - especially on a channelled car.

Actually the channeling doesn't affect the exhaust?????

Jerry,

Actually, it does. On a non-channelled car, the tubing K-member you see here would be at the bottom of the frame rail. There would be another set of tubing at the top of the frame rail. The exhaust system could then go between the two parts of the K-member, and there would be room for the exhaust to go over the ladder bars.

Not to say it can't be done with my chassis. It's just more of a PITA.

Dave thanks yes real confusing the chassis I have came with unequal length four bar was not all together so trying to figure out how to make this work
will have to look at it again and see if mounts are on arc not planning on adjusting this all the time just trying to make this work with what I have or will change to parallel in other words what ever is easier tho I want it right
thanks for the help.

Jack

I've got 4 33/34 chassis in my shop and all 4 of them have crossmembers such as your pic shows--I do not see any reason for a CHANNELED body to create a need to lower the top tubes---you should have the same exact stuff between the frame rails no matter whether your channeled or not

I can see that the LONGER ladder bars like on your pic could create some difficulties with space, but not the fact that your channeling the body

Jerry

PS Your not talking about lowering the floorboard also???

Jerry,

Yep, the floor in my car is lowered also. It is within 1/4" of the K-member. That's what's taking up all the space.

That was a mod by Kyle Bond that came with the roller that I didn't really think through. It also created some real problems mounting the seats.

Yep
A person could put in some lowered foot boxes and set the seats low and shallow on the floor but lowering the whole interior and running an inside the frame exhaust would be a pain

Jerry

Jerry,

This photo shows how much drop was put in the floor. It makes exhaust, carpeting and seat installation a lot of fun.

Originally Posted by mark craig

Dave thanks yes real confusing the chassis I have came with unequal length four bar was not all together so trying to figure out how to make this work
will have to look at it again and see if mounts are on arc not planning on adjusting this all the time just trying to make this work with what I have or will change to parallel in other words what ever is easier tho I want it right
thanks for the help.

Could you post a picture of what you have Mark??? Might be easier rather then just trying to visualize what you have.....

Did a bit of engineering and templates for the four bar in the 'maro today, going to run a triangulated 4 bar in it.... I usually make all my own pieces, seems nobody builds things the way I want them and if I use "store bought" I end up spending as much time modifying what they sent me to make it works as I do just fabbing everything myself. I've got templates for a lot of the bracketry, so it goes fairly quick now. Doesn't save any money, considering the time invested it probably costs more but at least I get what I want!!!!

Jack

If the floor was only dropped forward of the seats and the floor was at frame height on toward the rear you would of had mucho more room

Jerry,

If I had it to do over, the floor would be flat. I don't need the extra headroom. Also, the footwell by the pedal is mucho smaller than it would have been otherwise.

Parodice . . .sorry for the hijack - but it tends to be SOP here.

No worries mate, it's all useful information. This thread has kinda become an FAQ of rear end questions, and it's always useful to have the info in one place.

I'm definitely going to head down the avenue of the parallel four link setup with panhard bar. I've been in contact with the owner of the car that I posted a lot of pics of in my initial post and found out where he purchased all the components from, so I may be able to purchase many of the brackets and stuff, which is often cheaper as Dave mentioned. Maybe a few bits will have to be made, but that's easy when you've got the contacts!

Seems everything takes a bit of tweaking and tuning to work right! Let us know how it works out.

Just one more quick question in regards to rod ends/heim joints. Dave, you mentioned that the heim joints are best left for drag cars, as they are difficult to keep clean and lubricated. these are the ones with the spherical bearing, correct? But I should be going with the Polyurethane bushed, solid rod ends, true?

Pairodice thanks for letting me ask some questions the polyurethane ones are the ones I see on most cars but I am no expert.
Dave here are some pictures when I first bought car not that good but maybe some one can look at them and tell what's wrong or right.
if you look at bottom corner of the first picture picture on inside of frame there is a 1 bracket the top 4 bar ataches to I would definatly think have to weld on another bracket so 4 bar rests bettween the two brackets. The problem is this braket sticks above the frame an inch or more so the guy orignally building car cut back floor board to clear. Wondering can I cut this bracket off and use lower holes or do I have to set ride height first. Will post other pictures of rear end. Mark