Thread: 64 C10 disc brake conversion
-
07-08-2008 01:05 PM #1
64 C10 disc brake conversion
This is a repeat post.. posted it quite a while ago, and after a short search.. well, hopefully y'all will be willing to regurgitate the info again.
Would like to put power disc brakes on the 64 C10. Maybe even four-wheel disc, if the parts can be had on the cheap.
Would very much appreciate a parts list, and a vendor ( kit ) list.
Thanks
EG.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
07-08-2008 01:31 PM #2
Here are some kit sources.....try google for more
http://abspowerbrake.com/
http://911brakes.com/
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/
http://www.mpbrakes.com/
-
07-12-2008 08:11 PM #3
thanks for the links..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
07-12-2008 09:40 PM #4
Heres the links you need...
http://www.earlyclassic.com/
http://www.classicperform.com/6092chevtrk.htm
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/t.aspxLast edited by BigTruckDriver; 07-12-2008 at 09:49 PM.
Friends dont let friends drive fords!
-
10-08-2008 11:25 PM #5
I pulled the trigger on a kit from ABS POWER BRAKES.com : $875 for front power disc kit. Shipping time was slower than I would have liked, almost two weeks. They only make a couple parts in house: the rest of the stuff they order and resell. AS such, the few quality problems I found weren't entirely thier fault. Nothing they couldn't have found with some good QC work though.
The disc shields had razor sharp edges, which had to be deburred before installation. Also, one was slightly damaged from shipping. Was able to straighten it out with minimal trouble.
The calipers had some 'flashing' left from incomplete or sloppy finish cuts on the casting, these had to be dressed down with a fine flat file for fit on the spindles.
One of the spindles also had to be filed down, it lacked about ten-thousandths or more of letting the caliper slide in. In fact, I got tired of trying to get there with the fine file, and switched up to a bastard cut file.
The power booster brake rod was too long by 1.25" which necessitated a call to ABS. They assured me it was ok to cut it to length; that I wasn't 'missing' anything. An instruction sheet would have saved them an extra ten minutes of phone time. I drilled two additional holes in the firewall for the booster bracket. One I thru-bolted, the other I tapped for 3/8-16 as the steering column bracket was in the way of making it a thru bolt. I'd preferred to have them both thru-bolted, but am pretty sure it is plenty strong.
The booster assembly included a bracket which mounts the proportioning valve. They plumbed it to the master cylinder with 1/4" tubing, but all three outputs are 3/16" tubing. I was expecting to use 1/4" on the front, and 3/16" on the rear. I guess I'll be returning the quarter, and hope I'll have enough of the 3/16" to finish the job.
I'm using all stainless fasteners. Would it be over-demanding of me to expect them to include the six 5/16-18 fasteners for the dust shields?
the shields, spindles , master cylinder and calipers I painted with some rattle can epoxy. White is the only color I have.. it looks real nice. Contrasts well with the rusty suspension and the black undercoat. Just couldn't bear to install it nude and let it go to rust.
No problems at all with the discs, they look nice. Dust caps look like they are chrome finish, nice touch. Too bad I was too lazy to mask off and paint the disc hubs, would have looked nice. Also included, Timpken bearings, grease seals, and castle nuts with cotter pins.
Soon as I get the hardlines for the front bent up and installed, I'll let y'all know how it does on the road!Last edited by firebird77clone; 10-08-2008 at 11:27 PM.
.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-16-2008 05:15 PM #6
got the hardlines bent up and installed. Used Poly Armour tubing, nice stuff. Mailed the stainless back to Summit for refund, the super tool wouldn't hold it.
Started bleeding the lines, and found the rear wouldn't co-operate. turns out the rear hose was clogged up. It had been installed within the last couple years, so I hadn't bothered to replace it.
Now the only parts of the brakes which haven't been replaced are the rear drums and Ebrake levers..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-16-2008 08:25 PM #7
Originally Posted by firebird77cloneFriends dont let friends drive fords!
-
10-17-2008 04:26 PM #8
I dunno how fat your wallet is, but $875 is a chunk of change for me, and I was hoping that the parts would bolt up without any fuss..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-18-2008 02:25 PM #9
The DOG HAMMED wheels hit the calipers! The disc hubs aren't tall enough to adequately space out the wheels. AND the caliper on the passenger side binds!
I am not happy with this kit..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-21-2008 01:53 PM #10
Two days and three calls, and I'm not making any progress towards resolving this problem. It ain't looking good..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-21-2008 03:14 PM #11
Ok.. finally seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. I may have convinced them to send a new spindle..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-21-2008 06:43 PM #12
I took another look at it. Turns out when I dressed down the flanges for the caliper mounts, I left them less than perfect. I cut a few thousandths more off and the caliper now slides nicely, and disc ALMOST does not bind. Tomorrow in the daylight I'll take one last swipe or two with the bastard file and it should be right. Then, I'll have to grind down the corners of the calipers to clear the wheels. I already talked to the tech at ABS and they say it's ok by them ( I won't be voiding my warranty ). I made a template from poster board to guide my efforts with the grinder..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-22-2008 12:41 PM #13
GAAA I took off too much on the top. Now I have too much gap. dammit.
And, I made a template of the inner wheel to see how much I would have to remove ( grind off ) the caliper. This ain't gonna work. I would have to grind off over a quarter inch across the entire face. That would leave the caliper too weak.
But at least I am finally getting some decent feedback with customer service..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
10-24-2008 06:23 PM #14
I'm out. Pulled the stuff off and shipped it back to them.
We'll see if they give a refund.
Now, I have to re-plumb the brakes back to the stock format..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird