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08-11-2008 06:39 AM #16
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I hope this to be part of the joy.....getting to tune the suspension and play with the handling once I get use to the way an older vehicle drives....personally the only thing like this that I have driven was a severly chopped up model A (really wasnt built for daily use).....as I remember, it felt really odd in the corner. Again...I'm hoping the center of gravity is very low because of the added weight to the frame. Then I may go to an extreme 3/4 degree per inch of travel on camber. Right now I have the camber rods set at their most triangulated position (least ammount of camber). Looks like I have a lot of room to play.......and plenty of local curves to try it out on. Even bought a g-force meter. Dont worry...I wont put anyone at risk on our public highways (I'm truely not a menace to society ). We have several roads with multiple 15 mph back to back hairpins. Who knows....may joint up with some of the road coarse folks for a spiff through some twisties at the Kansas track. Big plans. I know I promised some more pics. I'm getting there. Yesterday I thought I would have the entire rear end complete.....alas....the whole rear end was shifted over 1/4 inch...still square...but unacceptable. Had to cut everything back apart and start over. Now it is square and less than a 1/16 inch side to side. I'm really not sure where I missed that measurement. And would you know.....I got welder happy and had all of the brackets welded inside and out.....permanently . All is good now. Tonight I'll get back on the springs and sway bar. You know.....grinders sure hurt when the come back and pop you in the forehead. I keep getting in situations where I have to use the wrong part of the wheel/rotation to get what I need grinded....resulting in bind and kick-back. Tight spots. Its behind me know though.
Thanks,
Dave
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08-11-2008 06:49 AM #17
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
Better look out if the grinder is behind you!!!!! You haven't been having real good luck with the grinder lately!!!
But I do know what ya mean on getting them all out of position.... I cheated and bought a reversible air grinder off the Matco truck, makes things a lot easier in some of that out of position work... it also came with a backup disc for sanding, so with a 60 grit disc it does some really nice prep work on bare steel, too....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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08-11-2008 06:54 AM #18
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I've changed mounting locations for the coil-overs. I've found several guys that are hoggin out the eye for the cushion/leaf spring mount.....and mounting the bottom of the coil-overs on the lower hub/camber rod bolt with a spacer. I'm using a 5/8" grade 8 and feel fairly comfortable with its strengh....how-ever I'm looking into other possiblitys for a bolt. You would know my next step up for a grade 8 as far as strenth? What is the strength of a stainless steel bolt for pretty? I'm going to polish this thing eventually and want all of the fasteners to look slick as well. The coil-overs fit very nice in the spot left with plenty of clearance at an inward angle....I havent check the angle......but know to allow for more lbs/inch on my springs. I would have went with the mono-leaf from VPB but at the time I didnt realize they made any width spring. Darn. Already spent the money on the coil-overs. My mistake for jumping the gun and not investigating my possiblities better. I'll get some pictures soon. Looks like the shock mount wont be used now for anything. And the sway bar will mount off a 1/4" piece of steel spanning the two dog-bone bolts (outside)....very similar to the brakets a couple vendors are using to mount coil-overs....only on the outide. This will leave lots of room for clearance with the sway bar arms.
Thanks,
Dave G
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08-11-2008 06:57 AM #19
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Dave G
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