Thread: split tube axle

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The aftermarket did indeed try it, but inevitably it failed.

here is an idea you may be able to use http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=5&reverse=1

I did mock up a split axle using wood. The camber change with 3" of wheel travel was in my opinion, unacceptable.
I met Bret the owner of Fatman at a Goodguys show and discussed it with him. He said it worked fine on his '34 Ford but he severely limited wheel travel. He did not push the product

Originally Posted by Matt167

The aftermarket did indeed try it, but inevitably it failed.

here is an idea you may be able to use http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=5&reverse=1

Just because he built it doesn't make it a good idea, we've all seen examples of bad engineering.

Mike

The camber change doesn't relate to wheel travel, but to the level of the pivot point--on the ford twin I beam its the opposite frame rail

Originally Posted by Mike52

Just because he built it doesn't make it a good idea, we've all seen examples of bad engineering.

Mike

nothing wrong with that setup. just modified 1981 F-150 to fit the frame. the pivot points were measured out and are the same as what was originally on the F-150. if you look at all his work, you'll note that he doesn't produce shoddy work

hey guys check out tri c enginering, they are doing the split axle project on one of their cars right now, check it out. just google their name.

dont get too bummed about ideas, it woud be neat, but they would have to be very long or else the tires would tip in and out like crazy. Im not shure how it would handle if you hit a hard bump on one side my thoughts would me it would be pretty jumpy.

Modelb, don't despair. I've ridden in a bucket with the Fat Man split axle and it worked fine. I'm going to split mine next winter. But anchor the axles at the middle, not the frame ends, to minimize the camber change.

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have you ever had it want to bump steer or go where it wants to during rough roads or chuck holes? How much Travel do you have in the shocks. I have been told to minimize the amount of travel of the shock. But how much is reasonable and still get some ride out of the car?

Most Hot Rod type coilovers have 3" of travel. Correct spring rates and shock valving have a lot more to do with ride and handling quality then the amount of travel the system has...

What kind of car are you going to put this system on? What works on a T Bucket would not be the correct setup for a longer wheelbase heavier car.

It wasn't my car, so can't comment much other than it seemed to be OK and the owner was happy. My bucket has frame-mount R&P, with minor bump steer and I expect even less with the split axle. I don't run shocks now, but plan to use QA1 adjustables to fine tune ride. And you need a steering damper with R&P, or it'll twist your wrists. I'll be posting my work on tbucketeers and maybe here too.

the car is a 1929 model A roadster pick-up with no bed. the wheelbase will be around 103". It has an olds quad4 with a c4 and quick change rear-end. It also has a track style nose. it has 4 wheel coil-overs that are adjustable for ride comfort. this is a hot rod and I do not expect it to ride like my 1952 chevy.

Originally Posted by Potvinguy

Modelb, don't despair. I've ridden in a bucket with the Fat Man split axle and it worked fine. I'm going to split mine next winter. But anchor the axles at the middle, not the frame ends, to minimize the camber change.

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You'll truly minimize the camber impact if you pivot them on the opposing frame rails vs the middle.

Originally Posted by modelb

the car is a 1929 model A roadster pick-up with no bed. the wheelbase will be around 103". It has an olds quad4 with a c4 and quick change rear-end. It also has a track style nose. it has 4 wheel coil-overs that are adjustable for ride comfort. this is a hot rod and I do not expect it to ride like my 1952 chevy.

Should work out ok on a nice light car like that if you get the geometry correct. Will you be running coilovers? Selecting the right spring rates and shocks becomes even more critical with a lighter car, not much room for error to make the suspension (any style) work correctly and handle good!

I've played with the old Ford Twin I Beam front ends some. They can be made to handle respectably when set up correctly, biggest problem with them from the factory is too much travel and too big of changes in geometry as the suspension moves up and down....

yes I am using coilovers. I am going to weigh the car on each corner with some race car scales a friend has to determine correct springs. As I said before everybodies help is much appreciated. How much do you think the axle should travel from up from ride height. What do you considre the correct settings for caster camber and toe-in? Thanks again.