Thread: Will this raise it??

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what good is your picture of the stance--you got it setting on a jack stand!!!!

The little jack stand you see is under the running board. I didn't have bolts in them. There are no jack stands under the frame or any other part that would effect the stance..

I have very carefully reviewed all your pics----there are several reasons you should change to stock spindles
It will correct the interferance with the lower ball joint
It will raise your frame ride ht. so the crossmember isn't so low
It will improve the bump steer problem your going to have
It will allow you to use some wheels that will solve the severe scrub radius problem you have
It will help with the fender clearance issues for turns and bumps

Good nite

Just need to know.. will it lower the front any??

Originally Posted by slantback37

Just need to know.. will it lower the front any??

What Jerry's saying is that you used three steps to get to where you are, you are now too low, and one of your methods introduced more problems that are going to make you miserable down the road. By putting in dropped spindles without modifying other front end components to address scrub angle, bump steer and scrub radius you're going to have ride problems (read in Suspension Setup for old threads); plus you introduced interference between your wheel and lower A-arm with your selected wheel size. The fix is to go back to your stock spindles, which will fix all of these problems, and then if you feel that you need to drop the front end 1/2", 3/4" or more trim your coils a bit, or use tires with shorter sidewall. Fix your spindle problem, then use your springs, tires and wheels for stance.
(Sorry Jerry, not stepping on your toes or putting words in your mouth, just seemed like another angle might be good here.)

Thanks guys. I'll start pulling them out this weekend. Al

I think with the change back to stock spindles and the smallest 70 series tire you will be able to achieve the stance that you desire. You could go with a 60 series tire, but I think it would rub the inner fenderwells. Way back when I had a 36 5 window coupe I ran 500/550-15's on stock 49 Mercury wheels in the front with reversed 49 Mercury centers on Buick wheels and the biggest 15 tire I could find which if memory serves me right was 7.95-15"s. The car wasn't in the weeds, but it did have a definite rake.

I have 15x7" wheels both front and back. The fronts I have right now are 195 65/ 15"

the fronts in your pics aren't the correct backspacing(offset) for proper scrub radius---a imaginery line drawn thru the upper and lower ball joints should (ideally) intersect the tire /ground contact patch in the middle---if this isn't set up correctly you will have a lot of pull this way, that way under braking, changing lanes crossing medium strip, etc

Please understand that I'm trying to be helpful before the mistakes, not after with you shoulda,shoulda,shoulda

Al, replacing the stock spindles and using smaller tires won't accomplish the look you're trying to achieve. It might lower the front of the car but you'll still have a lot of space between the tire & the fender well, which will look goofy. The large 225/15 tires on the front look really bad too. Check out this article in a recent Rod&Custom magazine dealing with this issue. Maybe it will help. 1936 Ford Three-Window - Rod & Custom Magazine

So if I have to buy new wheels.. How do I measure for new ones?? If I didn't say it before. It has never been alined..

I looked at the pics again. Are you sure the lower control arms are fully tightened on the spindle? Maybe it's an optical illusion but it looks like the ball joint may not be fully seated into the spindle. If that's the problem, tightening it should pull the lower control arm a little further away from the rim. There should be no reason these drop spindles shouldn't work with 15" wheels. Yes, your crossmember is still going to be really close to the ground but sometimes that's part of having a low riding car. As long as the lower control arms & tie rod ends are parallel to the ground and to each other, you shouldn't have bumpsteer.

Though If I replaced the dropped spindles with the stock ones, but leave the cut coils in.. Wouldn't that raise the front cross member even though it is lower in the front?? For proper back spacing.. Would I measure from the base of the rotor where the wheel would sit, and the imaginary line??

Also. For back spacing.. Should I look for back spacing for a Mustang II on the internet??

Originally Posted by slantback37

Though If I replaced the dropped spindles with the stock ones, but leave the cut coils in.. Wouldn't that raise the front cross member even though it is lower in the front?? For proper back spacing.. Would I measure from the base of the rotor where the wheel would sit, and the imaginary line??

Did you look at the link I posted in post #25??