Thread: Mustang II under '37 Buick Raadmaster

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After looking at all the options, I'm considering using a Heidts Mustang II under the front of my '37 Roadmaster. Want to build a good driver that handles well and safe.
I've read about Ackerman angles and do not understand how a Mustang II suspension can work well under cars with both short and long wheelbases.
My car has stock dimensions of:
Wheelbase - 131"
Front track - 58.3
Rear track - 59.25
1) Do Mustang II suspensions have adjustements that allow for different length vehicles?
2) Has anyone out there installed a Mustang II on a similar size car?
3) If so, did it handle well and have no tire wear issues?
Thanks

Mutt,
Since you have settled on Heidt's as a potential supplier have you called Heidt's tech line or e-mailed them from their Contact Heidts? I've found that when you get into specific questions about the products going to the source can save lots of grief. Another information source may be ..::FatmanFabrications::.., even if you're already sold on Heidt's kit approach. If you get it figured out post the answers so we'll all know for the future.

rspears,
Nothing is final until I order the parts, so I'm still open to other options.
I have e-mailed Mustang II specialist at speedway who recommended the Heidts Mustang II to me. I asked him the same questions and will pass on his response.
Will also contact Heidts direct.
Will look at Fatman as well.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Mutt's37Buick

rspears,
Nothing is final until I order the parts, so I'm still open to other options.
I have e-mailed Mustang II specialist at speedway who recommended the Heidts Mustang II to me. I asked him the same questions and will pass on his response.
Will also contact Heidts direct.
Will look at Fatman as well.
Thanks

I think you'll find that the aftermarket OEM's pick their geometry dimensions based on their most popular chassis, knowing that being off a bit is not going to affect handling unless you get to an extreme (limo length or super, super short for example), but might result in some "parking lot howl" as you make slow, tight turns on hot asphalt. Highway driving is not going to result in any noticeable scrub wear unless you're driving hard & fast on a lot of severely winding roads, but asking the guys who make them to explain why or why not is a very reasonable question. You have the $$$ that they want.

Back in 88 I started the build on my 38 chevy (same frame as yours) I bought a mustang 2 and cut the front end off removing the metal that would be the frame if it had one. When all the measuring was done the 38s frame was 1/8" wider than the opening in the mustang crossmember. A bar clamp was used to pull it together and I slid the two to geather. I rolled the rack with the use of bevel washers. When we set the front end alignment we used the mustang specks. I could take off ramps at 60 and the car just went right around the corner. never had a bit of trouble. BUT I did a lot of measuring before putting it together.

cfisher,
Thanks for the feedback.
1) If you used an aftermarket kit, what brand was it?
2) Did you have the 11" rotors, GM calipers & brakes, and if so did you ever have maintenance issues with them.
3) Did you have any of the parking lot howel that rspears mentioned?
Thanks

I've put in lots of MII systems with Heidt's being just one of the many brands.... As long as it's the "good stuff" with DOM or Moly round tubing for the arms, forged spindles, and big brakes they work fine on a big car. As Charlie mentioned, measure, measure, measure, check for level and square a few times, then measure some more!!! On a big car, I would also suggest getting the sway bar option on the front end. I've never had any problem with the GM 11" on the front, but to qualify that I bit I run discs on the rear most of the time, too. Getting the new crossmember in position, squared with the rails, and set at the correct angle is critical to having a good handling car!!!!!

I used a Mustang 2 front end out of a mustang 2... I put one under my 53 ford wagon too I never had any problems with them

cffisher & Dave Severson,
Thanks for the feedback.
1) I'll look at Heidts, Fatman, and Total Cost Involved. Are there other suppliers you can recommend?
2) I'm also looking into buying a kit from cobrabrakes that adapts 13" cobra brakes to mustang 2 spindles.
Has anyone ever used these?
Thanks

Unless you're going racing the 13" brakes are a waste of money. The 11" stop just fine, especially with disc on the rear, too--if you just have to upgrade, Wilwood, Aeorspace, or one of the brake companies make an HD caliper that replaces the GM on the front.

Thanks for the feedback

Below is the response I received from the Mustng II specialist from Speedway Motors with regards to my question on compatability with my 131" wheelbase Roadmaster.


"The Mustang II spindle should still work pretty good even with a 131” wheel base. The Ackerman angle with the longer wheelbase will hardly be noticed unless you are planning on doing a lot of Autocross racing. It would only effect very tight turns like in a parking lot. In a perfect world the front tie rod when lined up with the ball joint centerline should intersect the center of the rear axle. In order to get the Ackerman correct the tie rod location on the steering arm would have to be moved inboard approximately ¼” but personally I think the stock location will be close enough.
Heidt’s does not carry the brake kit that uses 94-04 Mustang brakes. The only 13” brake kit Heidt’s sells for the Mustang II spindle uses a Heidt’s bracket and a Wilwood rotor and caliper. Be careful these kits may increase the track width. I hope this answers your questions.

Michael Limberg
Speedway Motors, Inc.
New Product Development
mklimberg@speedwaymotors.com
402-323-3210 ext. 2945 "

1) Does anyone know if there is hardware that could be used with the front tie rod that would shift the connection inward 1/4" and allow the suspension to be optimized?
Thanks

Can anyone provide some dimensions for a set of stock or tubular Mustang II upper and lower control arms?
These would be the A-shaped lower control arm (no-strut design).
I would hope to use a strut rod in addition for added strength.
It's a long shot, but I'm exploring the option of using them with my Buick cross member and springs.
If you can furnish dimensions A, B, & C for a lower arm, that would help.
If you can furnish diemensions A & C for and upper arm, that would help.
See the attached sketch.
Thanks for your help.

Without knowing your dimensions... typically you are going to find attempting to use factory pick up points and then modifying aftermarket parts made for something else usually ends up in a compromise. With what you are doing i would suggest going with a proven design. That way if something is wrong you will be able to get proper tech support.

I don't have those measurments handy for you, but I am using a Heidt's front end and got the 5/8" (I believe that was the measurment) narrowed tubular control arms (along with 2" dropped spindles). I am glad I did because I like the look with the wheels and tires nicely tucked under the fenders and don't want a little skinny tire up front (although not too wide either with a manual rack). It seems like I'll be able to just fit a 15x7" wheel with a 3.5" backspace. Just something to think about if you are going for a low and mean look!