Thread: 73 charger squirrley steering
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04-13-2012 10:37 PM #31
All work was done in same shop, by the same guy.
It's ready for pick up, but the shop is closed till Monday.
Soon as I can, I'll get it in the craft shop, up on a lift and get my hands dirty.
Oh, and I'll run off the squirrel.
I wonder if its the same one whom left the acorns on the intake of my nomad?.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-19-2012 06:13 PM #32
I'm wondering if it could be something real simple.
Could the Pittman arm be the wrong length?
Is there a reference somewhere I could use to verify parts?.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-20-2012 04:49 AM #33
Like NTF said. I would be looking at the steering box if everything else checks out. If the pitman arm was the wrong lenght, I don't think it would fit onto the box. Not sure on that, but doesn't sound like it would make the problem that your having. Did you jack it up and move the wheels from side to side? With it jacked up, how much play is in the steering wheel?
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04-20-2012 06:50 AM #34
You've got parts that are or soon will be 40 years old, and normal wear on the tie-rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings, etc, etc is going to give you excessive play in the system. A quick "google" here 1973 shows that you can get a total rebuild kit for $310
graphite-polyurethane-front-end-rebuild-kit.jpg
I would think if you haven't done this it would be (or should have been) the first step. Now that said, if you're having a shop do your work that $310 will probably become about $1500 or more - they'll be looking to get retail list for each of the parts, and then it's a labor intensive job to drop all of those parts, count threads to keep the alignment close, and then reassemble. Maybe you've already done this?Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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04-20-2012 08:46 AM #35
Firebird---------------
What capabilities do you have????? Do you have access to a lift or at least a floor jack and couple of jackstands????
you need this car with weight off the suspension but at ride ht. (supported by lower control arms near the outter ends) unhook the steering rods---turn each side spindle thru steering arc feeling for the very slightest differance of effort ---any binding at all will effect the steering that you feel and the way the car drives----------
also, tires that are mismatched direction will pull the car sideways which then the steering seems the culprid--you have some very basic thing wrong that your repairman are overlooking, and I would like to add a old rule of thumb----look at the other end of the car---it could be something at the rear causing this-- wish I was closer as I'd bet you lunch and a cool one that I could find something in 5 minutes----
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04-21-2012 05:13 PM #36
i would take that bet, gladly.
ok, to recap, EVERYTHING has been replaced. New tres too. EXCEPT for the steering coupler in the column.. and that is the new culprit...
the shop subbed it out to another shop, whom confirmed the alignment, and says there is play in the steering somewhere.
I have access to the post craft shop, with lifts and tools and all the good stuff. Haven't gotten it in there yet,
Picked it up just yesterday, and although the second shop claims they made no adjustments, I swear it is a bit better than it was. And, I severely question if the coupler is the problem, because it seems to get better at about 70 MPH. It is definitely worst about 35-55
NO shimming, vibrations, or pulling. It just doesn't like to track straight, and is tricky in turns.
Soon as I can, and soon as I get motivated, I'll get it on a lift and start looking at things myself. I just wish the craft shop hours were more convenient.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-23-2012 11:02 AM #37
I have identified another shop: the align and pull frames, and are reputed to be the best in town. I was recommended my another 73 charger owner; his frame is torque-twisted..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-23-2012 11:53 AM #38
From what I remember, cars running a$$ end jacked up tended to be pretty loosey-goosey in the turns.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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04-23-2012 12:48 PM #39
I believe that's true, but I've only got a couple inches of lift, it shouldn't be a problem.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-23-2012 01:20 PM #40
when we measure and set caster in tenths of a degree , it can be a tremendous amount as a rule of thumb--1 innc over 60 inches is equal to a dgree---2 inches over length of w/b can be enough to cause wondering---
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04-23-2012 02:14 PM #41
This may sound DUMB but you say you have new tires have the been balanced??bent wheel??Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
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Christian in training
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04-23-2012 03:03 PM #42
I'm questioning the springs. Are they original? I know on my GM (which are different) that there are a few different ones that will fit on mine. But for me, I think if I put my different ones (REAR) on that they might cause wondering. Just thinkin outside the box. Looking a different direction.
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04-24-2012 01:26 PM #43
Springs are new, with a couple inches of extra lift.
Tires are balanced, and wheels straight..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-24-2012 02:01 PM #44
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04-24-2012 02:11 PM #45
What's lifting those springs to give them extra height? Or are they taller and thinner? That's what I was talking about. Maybe they are to flimzy to keep it stable. Air shocks might give them more stability.
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