Thread: Triagulated 4 link set up
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06-17-2013 03:29 PM #1
Triagulated 4 link set up
Hello....
I am working on my 32 truck that I am taking over from my dad. He was installing a universal triangulated 4 link set up with coil overs. The question I have is the instructions came with dimensions on how far from the center line of the axle to the upper and lower link mounts on the rear end. If I use these dimensions the lower links don't run parallel to the frame rails. On ever set up I have been able to look at the lower links run parallel to the frame rails. In order to run the links parallel I need to move them a couple inches more then the directions. Am I ok to do this? My thinking is that the kit is for a universal set up so I gotta think I can deviate a bit as needed?
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06-17-2013 03:37 PM #2
Bottom bars need to be parallel with the ground at ride height, depending on tire size, coilover mounting point, and a number of other factors this may or may not be parallel with the frame rails. Most of the times on a Deuce frame they are very close to parallel with the frame rails.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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06-17-2013 03:50 PM #3
Based on ride height and the coil overs I can get them parallel to ground I was more referring to side to side
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06-17-2013 04:41 PM #4
Are you mounting them on the inside of the frame rail?
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06-17-2013 08:36 PM #5
4-Bar configuration
Side-to-side, the bottom bars of a triangulated 4-link should be parallel with the centerline of the car and perpendicular to the rear axle. If that doesn't happen, adjust so that it does.Jack
Gone to Texas
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06-17-2013 10:37 PM #6
Henry that is the exact 4link I have but if I go 37 apart they are close to parallel but not exact I need to figure out the dimension but I figure they would be about 39 to 40 apart
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06-17-2013 11:02 PM #7
You can run a heavy line or wire down the center of the frame and locate from that. Don't worry about the Heidt measurement. Frames can be a little different. Without seeing your chassis, I can't be sure, but I would tack the frame mounts on first, then locate the rear axle brackets by measuring off the centerline.Jack
Gone to Texas
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06-18-2013 01:17 PM #8
It is the original 32 frame for the truck it has been shortened not sure how much....
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06-20-2013 11:59 AM #9
I stand corrected. I pulled the bed off last night and realized that the lower bars dont run parallel to the ground. The bars are higher in the front than the back. The brackets used in the front are mounted to the underside of the frame rail nd the rear brackets are also mounted to the underside of the axle. I guess my question is do I need to raise the mounts on the axle side? Basically the mount on the axle would be more on the front than the bottom?
Thanks
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06-20-2013 02:42 PM #10
How close is it are they to being level? And is that with the vehicle at normal ride height? The front being higher by say 1/2 : 3/4 of an inch is what I would believe to be within tolerance.
If you're 3" different from 1 end to the other, then I'd search for a way to lower the mounts up front and / or raise the axle mounts. fwiw/imho/point 02/etc..
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06-20-2013 04:27 PM #11
I'm with what Mike said in the post above! I'd suggest getting the bars as close to parallel with the ground as possible. Might be necessary to modify the brackets to achieve this sometimes. IMO, anything more then 1/2" higher on the front of the bar is going to create more front end lift when you stand on it---good at the dragstrip but not good on the street as it will lead to oversteer on the front end when accelerating out of a corner or curve.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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06-20-2013 06:49 PM #12
Some detailed photos of what you have at present won't hurt for the guys to actually see what is happening or not. As you have removed the bed that shouldn't be to difficult to get photos looking straight down on the rear end and lying on the floor taking a photo or two of the vehicle at ride height.I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.
Isaiah 48: 17,18.
Mark.
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06-20-2013 08:27 PM #13
I may be wrong but I believe the OP is saying that he can get the lower bars parallel to the ground but is trying to get them square/inline with the length of the frame. Moving them to get them parallel should not hurt but maybe the OP should call Heidts to confirm.
I had a setup on my Cobra replica that had the lower trailing arms at an angle toward the tires at the rear end and the uppers were at an angle toward the pumpkin at the rear end.Last edited by Bug; 06-20-2013 at 10:36 PM.
Bug
"I may be paranoid but that doesn’t mean they are not watching me"
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06-20-2013 08:33 PM #14
The bottom bars do run parallel with the frame, the top bars run at an angle. Same setup, except built in round tubing instead of stamped steel, that the factories have ran for many years on coil spring rear end cars.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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06-20-2013 10:43 PM #15
I would say the lower bars are about 1" to 1.5" higher in the front. I am out of town for the weekend picking up the welding machines I will post some pictures on Sunday when I get home... Thanks for the help
A belated Happy Birthday to you too, Hank!!
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