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Thread: 69 chevelle pro street project
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I've got to ask, what the heck is an LS BBC??? If you're doing a Pro Street car, rear tires are going to be around 15" wide, 30.0" to 31.5" tall. You'll also have to decide on ride height and the car's stance...
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  2. #32
    tylerj is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    just a fuel injected aluminum big block chevy, I guess that's always how it was referred to me as.

    So really width doesn't play a huge roll in deciding. But if I went 31 x 16.5 rear and 28 x 7.5 front it would give my a little room for suspension travel correct? I think chevelle's ride fairly level with stock suspension maybe a slight rake.

  3. #33
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    An LS and a BBC are two different engines, ok, you're going to be running a big block Chevy. Tire sizes will work on a Chevelle, on a build like this you're not stuck with the stock ride height or rake, you can build it into the car as part of the build.....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  4. #34
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Here's a link to a rear frame section at S&W Race Cars. They build some very nice pieces, used to be a dealer for them and built more then a few cars from their packages. Study the site, they have rear frame sections, cages, suspension, and most everything you're going to be needing......

    http://www.swracecars.com/store/Dire...OSCAR_441.aspx
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  5. #35
    tylerj is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Oh.. I'm sorry about that, I guess I was just thinking of a LS series big block--

    So are those sizes reasonable? I'm not saying I can't adjust ride height or rake without using the tires but I'm still wanting to drive it on the street so I don't want to go overly low with it. I assume the size mainly is being used as a reference point to figure rear housing length and frame rail width.

    Im really glad you're still trying to help, I feel soo out of the loop compared to you and the others on here.

  6. #36
    tylerj is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I have been looking on there at their rear frame kits actually, would you use one of those or a section set up already for a ladder bar or 4 link? Such as: 64-72 Chevelle 2x3 Ladder Bar, 64-72 Chevelle, FRAME 64-72 CHEVELLE & 70-72 MONTE CARLO - FULLY WELDED Race Car, Racing, Dragster, Chassis, Roll bars, Cages, Fabrication, Suspensions, Parts, Shocks, Springs, Motor Plates, Brakes, Drivelines, Housings

    They are a little more spendy but they are complete and ready to weld on.

  7. #37
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Personally, with all the really great technology available for the LS engines and their EFI system, I'd forget about using a big block.... An LS can be built to 427 + cubic inch, and the electronic controls of both fuel and timing are light years ahead of the big block stuff and for a lot less $$$$$ too.... Weight and cost are both less with an LS, horsepower is plenty for and 8.50 car. At last year's LS shootout, there was a ton of them in the high 7 low 8 range and not near the mega bucks you're talking with an aluminum BBC and an EFI system for it.....

    Yes, tire size and wheel backspacing is the first thing to have as an absolute when you start a build. Don't feel like some kind of dummy either!!! Lots of us on here have been doing this stuff for 40+ years and we sure as heck didn't know it all when we built our first projects!!!!! As the old saying goes, dumb questions are a whole lot better then dumb mistakes!!!!!
    lamin8r and tylerj like this.
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  8. #38
    tylerj is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks a lot Dave!

    I did do some research on the same similar set up on a small block using twin turbos etc; and its roughly 25-40% cheaper to get really similar power. I am still unsure but I am kinda leaning towards small block.

    As far as the chassis goes I am going to get some measurements off the car so I know how much room under it side to side I have before I decide on anything. I have a pretty good idea on what it is but I want to double check =)

  9. #39
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    there were ls bbc engines LS 5 LS 6 over the counter LS7 along before the LS sbc i built both parts for the ls sbc is going to be more or on some things the same to build the BBC as for the ls sbc is lite years ahead of the bbc that is a big No. you are better with the LS small block over the older small block chevys as for heads but the bottom end with the ls the older chevy is abit more user freindly thats is why World makes a old sbc block that the new top half of the LS bolts on to it and Dart has reworked a new LS block to be better then the stock one .as for big power threw the stock Gm ls block the alum one moves around alot in the main webs and piston bores. new Gm ls7 sbc block are not cheap $2880 or about thats dealer cost i would not put alot of power threw it about 600hp on the Gm block . for the same price a Big M iron block can take over 2000HP and with billet cap 2000HP for about the same cost or less the cost of a LS power level will have alot to do with cost of build do not kid your self them low 8s lsx or ls base engine s have money in them .you could go on the yellow bullet as see how many are going fast with stock parts some on there have gone that fast with junk yard bottom ends they say.. i yet to find a good LS core for $250
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 03-04-2014 at 09:45 PM.
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