Thread: throw out bearing

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I clipped my throw out bearing in my fork last night and snapped the fork onto the bell pivot ball.
The first thing I noticed was that the bearing wasn't centered in the center hole of the bell.
Second, I noticed that the bearing can't really pivot on the end of the clutch fork, so as the fork travels, the bearing doesn't remain parallel with the pressure plate surface. Won't it have uneven contact as it's depressed?
Third, is the bearing really supposed to just sit down on those spinning diaphram blades? Doesn't the bottom get all chewed up?

Originally posted by tcodi
I clipped my throw out bearing in my fork last night and snapped the fork onto the bell pivot ball.
The first thing I noticed was that the bearing wasn't centered in the center hole of the bell.
Second, I noticed that the bearing can't really pivot on the end of the clutch fork, so as the fork travels, the bearing doesn't remain parallel with the pressure plate surface. Won't it have uneven contact as it's depressed?
Third, is the bearing really supposed to just sit down on those spinning diaphram blades? Doesn't the bottom get all chewed up?

The bearing should center itself up once you get the trans in.

the clips are made so they will spring open or give in when you mash the clutch paddle

That's why its called a bearing, because its made to spin when you mash the clutch paddle. You should be able to spin the bearing by hand before you put it in or you've got a bad bearing. you'll need about 1/8 " of play between the clutch fork and clutch rod when you are not using the clutch or going down the road.

The thing is, it's not even close to centered. With the position of the pivot ball, it isn't possible to get the bearing to the center without removing it from the fork. It's probably a good 1/4"-1/2" off center.
I got a standard gm fork, and I have a gm bell. I don't know what the problem is.

Originally posted by tcodi
The thing is, it's not even close to centered. With the position of the pivot ball, it isn't possible to get the bearing to the center without removing it from the fork. It's probably a good 1/4"-1/2" off center.
I got a standard gm fork, and I have a gm bell. I don't know what the problem is.

like denny said, looks like you have the wrong arm and/or bellhousen

yarg.
My bellhousing does have a center hole slightly larger than the typical gm ones. Mine is 5 1/8. I was planning on welding an insert in it to make it fit my 4.85" trans. bearing retainer. I assumed that regardless of the center hole, the bearing would still be centered. After all, the middle is still the middle.
I guess not though.
It's such a pain finder a bell with the right size center hole for less than 150 bucks.

Originally posted by tcodi
yarg.
My bellhousing does have a center hole slightly larger than the typical gm ones. Mine is 5 1/8. I was planning on welding an insert in it to make it fit my 4.85" trans. bearing retainer. I assumed that regardless of the center hole, the bearing would still be centered. After all, the middle is still the middle.
I guess not though.
It's such a pain finder a bell with the right size center hole for less than 150 bucks.

no you are right about the hole in the middle, if the bellhousen is wrong then the location of the pivot ball would be wrong. it sounds like your folk it to short. are you sure it will bolt to the motor?

yep, fits the motor like a glove, snugly over my 168t flywheel.

Originally posted by tcodi
yep, fits the motor like a glove, snugly over my 168t flywheel.

sounds like you have the wrong arm. if you can center that trans in the bellhousen then you should be able to extend the arm or move the ball. is the arm the right length from the ball to the clutch rod ?

Originally posted by DennyW
The fork should cover the center of the pressure plate. Otherwise the pressure will push more on one side. Causing problems real fast

where did you learn to draw at ?

Originally posted by DennyW
Home school quick draw 101, hahaha

it looks ok . those bolt holes is off a little.

"the right length from the ball to clutch rod"

Do you mean for the linkage? If so, I haven't even set that up yet. When I had the engine and bell sitting in the front I eyed it up and it will be pretty close to in-line to the clutch pedal tab, but I am planning on working out the linkage after I get the rest set up. I'll take a picture of the bell with the fork and bearing in it tonight so you guys can see perfectly what I mean.
But that sketch was right on, the fork does not reach the center.

Originally posted by tcodi
"the right length from the ball to clutch rod"

Do you mean for the linkage? If so, I haven't even set that up yet. When I had the engine and bell sitting in the front I eyed it up and it will be pretty close to in-line to the clutch pedal tab, but I am planning on working out the linkage after I get the rest set up. I'll take a picture of the bell with the fork and bearing in it tonight so you guys can see perfectly what I mean.
But that sketch was right on, the fork does not reach the center.

should be a rod that push on the outer end of the fork and thats called the clutch rod.

pic of off center bearing

Looks O.K. to me. I bet it will align when the input shaft of the trans. goes through it. The spring clips that hold the bearing to the fork may be pulling the bearing slightly past center. If you look close the fork looks to be slightly over center of the bearing. When it's on the trans intput shaft it will be slightly further out on the fork allowing it to pivot when you depress the clutch peddle. You may be getting the same miss alignment from the clip that holds the fork on the pivot ball too. All should line up when it's assembled WITH the trans.

But then, I could B wrong.

Originally posted by tcodi
pic of off center bearing

that looks ok to me. the center of the bearing will run on the dead end of the folk and that will let it pivet more. looks good to me. on the other end is where the clutch rod goes.