Thread: Transmission cooling lines---steel or rubber???

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On all of my previous rods, using small block Chev engines and turbo 350 automatics, I have used steel or copper lines to run from the tranny up to the underside of the radiator, for the tranny oil to be cooled by the rad. How much pressure is in these lines---would it be acceptable to run flexible neoprene lines instead?

I know when one broke on my truck we used rubber to repair it. I think it is still on there.

Originally posted by brianrupnow
On all of my previous rods, using small block Chev engines and turbo 350 automatics, I have used steel or copper lines to run from the tranny up to the underside of the radiator, for the tranny oil to be cooled by the rad. How much pressure is in these lines---would it be acceptable to run flexible neoprene lines instead?

Use the least amount of neoprene hose as possible. Preferrably none at all! Take your time and make the cooling lines out of steel brake line tubing. (5/16)

Brian,

You can run flex lines, but they have to be made for transmission oil. I ran steel most of the way, but used reinforced flex from the radiator to the frame rail and from the frame rail to the trans. Most of the auto stores carry the hose. I picked mine up at Auto Zone.

The tranny cooler lines are low pressure lines at about 12-20 psi. But as pro60 stated, its not a good idea to run rubber lines. Take your time, run steel lines. Youll thank yourself later.

Here's a photo.

I jumped from the trans to the frame rail with flex line because of the close fit of the trans tunnel to the transmission. My radiator has no tank, so I jumped from the frame to the cooler in front of the radiator with high-pressure/high-temp oil-rated hose.

Steel lines are better, of course, but I couldn't turn out of the transmission with steel without re-doing the whole trans tunnel. Not worth the effort to me.

Another view. I used 5/16 tube to match the tranny output lines.

Found a photo with the lines hooked up. They aren't as close to the exhaust pipe as it looks.

I've been staring at that last picture you posted with your cooling lines to the tranny, and I have to say something. You're gonna have a leak at the ends. I'm not picking on you, or degrading your set-up in any way, I'm just bothered by all that hose, and the clamps. Trust me, they will leak. Just a friendly observation.

as long as you use the flexible neoprene lines it really don't make any dif. there is very little pressure on the line. its pumped back into the Trans in a open line so the pressure is very little. I like neoprene because the metal is subject to breakage or braided line for looks.

Pro,

No problem. Constructive criticism is always welcome. It may not show, but the tube ends are belled to prevent slippage.

You may be right, but I've used the same setup many times before. We'll see. Besides, I'm supposed to listen to a guy with a 4' long Chebby????

Henry Rifle, Thanks for the picture! I will soon have to hook up the same sort of lines and wonder about heat from the exhaust on both the transmission lines AND the nearness of the starter solenoid to the exhaust both below and above on the header side. The shield I ordered from Speedway (shiny aluminum) did not fit so I wonder what you will use for a heat shield on the solenoid and whether it would be a good idea to put some sort of simple shield between the exhaust pipe and the trans cooler hoses. Just a fine point in you otherwise excellent chassis build.

Don Shillady
Retired Scinetist/teen rodder

Don,

I'm just going to get a sheet of aluminum and fit it above the exhaust pipe. I may raise the trans cooler hoses up a bit too. I'm a bit limited for space because the body is channelled and the floor is dropped. The floor sits almost down on the crossmember tubes. There isn't much space to play around with. I really regret getting the dropped floor. At 6', I don't need it.

Don,

If heat becomes an issue for your solenoid you can install a remote solenoid as pictured here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

You don't need to buy a kit like this, the parts are generally available. I did use this kit for mine and it works well. It uses a jumper to bypass your existing solenoid.

Pat

Originally posted by DennyW
Ford parts to fix a Chevy,
WAIT!!! I'm just kidding Henry and Stu, honest. I have been laughing so much tonight, that I just couldn't resist.

Well... he is putting it in a Ford! And mine is in a Studebaker

Pat