Thread: Cruic-o-matic Trans
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02-15-2005 11:52 AM #16
Originally posted by DennyW
Well, I do try to laugh a lot, and stay as Gay as I can,
Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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02-15-2005 04:16 PM #17
My folt guy's .
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02-15-2005 04:23 PM #18
Originally posted by ali reyadh
My folt guy's .
im glade you got that stright. i thought you knew something we didnt.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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02-15-2005 04:54 PM #19
just a mistake,,,,,Last edited by ali reyadh; 02-15-2005 at 04:57 PM.
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02-15-2005 05:06 PM #20
All most forgat , found a c6 at B&M shifter's .
That's just fine with me .
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02-15-2005 05:08 PM #21
Originally posted by ali reyadh
All most forgat , found a c6 at B&M shifter's .
That's just fine with me .Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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02-15-2005 05:24 PM #22
Time to go ,
Later gay's or guy's......hehehe
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02-15-2005 07:24 PM #23
Re: Re: Re: Are you sure your in the right gear?
Originally posted by Streets
IF yer drivin' a "Stock Ford" ya should be familiar with the word "WEIRD" Matt... Ask DRG... He knows it too!!You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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02-15-2005 09:37 PM #24
Oh matt, your not being creative. Wander to the top of the strap. You'll find a rivit there. Drill out the rivit, place a comparable bolt in its place, run a standard issue strap(one from a universal gas tank strap kit works well) hang a muffler hanger from the strap and tighten down the clamp. You'll find Ford and Non-Factory Creative Fix work hand in hand. Also, starter motor bolts should always have a bead of lock-tite if its on an aluminum transmission for a ford carRight engine, Wrong Wheels
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02-16-2005 06:31 PM #25
Originally posted by drg84
Oh matt, your not being creative. Wander to the top of the strap. You'll find a rivit there. Drill out the rivit, place a comparable bolt in its place, run a standard issue strap(one from a universal gas tank strap kit works well) hang a muffler hanger from the strap and tighten down the clamp. You'll find Ford and Non-Factory Creative Fix work hand in hand. Also, starter motor bolts should always have a bead of lock-tite if its on an aluminum transmission for a ford carYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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02-16-2005 09:16 PM #26
Ok, so they diddnt change then from 1967-1987. In the grand marqs case the rubber strap was cut. So i drilled it out at the top, and ran my type of setup. Then placed a steel type hanger and ran a muffler clamp through it. Worked like a charmRight engine, Wrong Wheels
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02-17-2005 07:37 PM #27
Originally posted by drg84
Ok, so they diddnt change then from 1967-1987. In the grand marqs case the rubber strap was cut. So i drilled it out at the top, and ran my type of setup. Then placed a steel type hanger and ran a muffler clamp through it. Worked like a charmYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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02-21-2005 03:35 AM #28
Ford Cruise-O-Matic
First, to the guy with the shot tranny in his T-Bird, I would have to agree that a C6 is the best choice. You could rebuild the old trans, if you could find someone who knows what they're doing, but it would be very expensive, probably more than a good C6 would be outright. I'd stay away from a C4 unless you want slipping upshifts under full throttle. C4s are way to light duty to put behind an FE big block; it'd be toast inside of a year if you halfway drove it hard.
To the guy with a wierd shifting pattern in his Cruise-O, I had a '59 Fairlane with a 332 FE and a Cruise-O-Matic. It had D, D2, and L on the shift selector on the steering column. If you put it in D, it started in low, shifted automatically to second, and then again into drive (or third). If you put it into D2, it started in second and shifted into drive automatically. If you put it into L in started in first and stayed there until you selected another range. I distinctly remember putting this car into D2 on muddy roads so as to put the power to the wheels without slipping, and it did help. I lived way out of town where muddy roads were the norm, so I did this quite often. I have an '88 Bronco with a 351W and a C6, and it does exactly the same thing the old Cruise-O did with respect to gear selection. The only difference I can tell (other than the trans is obviously different) is that D2 has been replaced with 2 and L has been replaced with 1 on the column selector.
Randy
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
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