Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Bolting shifter directly to tranny
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    MrNvgtr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Car Year, Make, Model: '76 BMW 2002
    Posts
    3

    Bolting shifter directly to tranny

     



    Please excuse my ignorance. I'll try to ask for advice on this subject using terms I know but in a way hopefully you guys can understand. Also, I come from the BMW world of shadetree mechanics where this is unheard of.

    Long story short, I was reading in a "how to book" on building hotrods and in the section on transmissions, they mentioned how you can (basically) bolt a shifter directly onto a transmission. Of course, this was in the context of American muscle, a subject which is ironically foriegn to me. Anyway, I lightbulb went off in my head because this is exactly what I need to do with my transmission and shifter setup on the project track car I'm building. I'm mating an S50 motor (inline 6 from a '95 BMW M3) to a Getrag 260 (5-speed from a 90 325is) and stuffing it into my '76 BMW 2002. Unlike swapping engines on many American hotrod projects, there is nothing fitting or alike about anything in the drivetrain that's going into my 2002, nor is there a large aftermarket of products for something this crazy. As far as I can tell, this was done by one other individual, however, he replaced the hole floor and subframe (that's right, no frames on these puppies) with one from a '90s 3 series BMW, so the engine bolted right up. Anyway, back on topic. Due to the length and weight of the engine, I had to back it up about 2 inches past the firewall, which sets the end of my tranny right where the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel is. Before I realized you could bolt the shifter right up to the tranny, I was imagining having to figure out how to make the shift arm and shift linkage extremely short so I wouldn't have to reach back too unnaturally far to shift. This is a track (read Saloon, GT, road racing) car, so ergonomics is important here. Can anyone help me determine if its possible to integrate the shifter right into my Getrag tranny using the direct attachment method. Sorry, I don't know the correct term for that. I'm so immersed in the BMW world and we never ever do anything like that. Thanks for any help you guys can give. I've attached a few pictures for reference to what I've got on my hands here, and yes, in this configuration the tranny is supposed to tilt 10 degrees toward the passenger side. I can explain later if needed.


    Last edited by MrNvgtr; 05-30-2005 at 10:59 PM.
    Michael

  2. #2
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SW Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Ply Valiant, 83 El Camino
    Posts
    3,843

    ".....Unlike swapping engines on many American hotrod projects, there is nothing fitting or alike about anything in the drivetrain that's going into my 2002, nor is there a large aftermarket of products for something this crazy...."


    Yeah thats what I like about hotroding American iron everything just bolts together, just walk into your local aftermarket store. You betcha

    Your pictures can't be pulled up, but it seems to me the simple solution would be to use your stock shifter and linkage, then siimply build/bend a shift handle to locate the handle in the most comfortable position.

  3. #3
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    I agree with Mike. On the American transmissions where the shifter bolts to the transmission, there are bosses cast into the housing to bolt the shifter to and the shift arms are on the outside. I am not familiar with your trans, but most European trans I have seen have the shifter integral to the transmission, that is the shift arms are actually inside and the shifter attaches through the case. You should be able to build or modify a shift lever that puts the shift knob in the right position. Good luck and I would like to see your pictures.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  4. #4
    MrNvgtr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Car Year, Make, Model: '76 BMW 2002
    Posts
    3

    The pictures should post. I'll try to fix that.

    The problem with using the stock shifter and linkage is that it would put the shifter about where the e-brake handle is. Yeah, too far back for comfort. Even severely shortening it, and I'm not sure that would even work because of the severe change in geometry and I don't have one here to test it out with, would put the shifter about midway between the e-brake and stock shift position.

    In response to Stu, if I'm understanding you correctly, you are saying that as far as you know, european transmissions (like my Getrag) don't have an external shift arm and shift linkage. That's exactly wrong. That external linkage and arm are my problems because its causing me to debate bypassing that stuff and install the shifter directly to the tranny.

    Michael

    Originally posted by Mike P
    ".....Unlike swapping engines on many American hotrod projects, there is nothing fitting or alike about anything in the drivetrain that's going into my 2002, nor is there a large aftermarket of products for something this crazy...."


    Yeah thats what I like about hotroding American iron everything just bolts together, just walk into your local aftermarket store. You betcha

    Your pictures can't be pulled up, but it seems to me the simple solution would be to use your stock shifter and linkage, then siimply build/bend a shift handle to locate the handle in the most comfortable position.
    Michael

  5. #5
    MrNvgtr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Car Year, Make, Model: '76 BMW 2002
    Posts
    3

    Sorry, just saw your reply that I guess you edited. I didn't know there was a helpful response until now. Thanks for fixing the dumb mistake with the links.

    Actually, there is no linkage in these pictures. Maybe that's why you thought I was talking about internal linkage - because you don't see it in the pictures. I don't want to buy it yet because I need to determine if I need to buy and modify the stock linkage to be extremely short or if I can get it custom made to connect right on top of where it attaches to the tranny.

    I have a feeling I'm going to go with the modification method. I just talked to a guy at Pikes Peak Motor Company here in Colorado Springs and he said for his Detomaso Pantera project he essentially modified a shift lever to fit right in the horizontal connector at the end of the tranny, virtually eliminating all linkage. Of course he had linkage, but it basically consisted of the extremely short shift arm that holds the nylon cup that holds the shift lever and the supporting hardware that keeps the hole contraption from moving around. That's basically what the stock external shift linkage does, except it sits back past the rear of the tranny about 8 to 10 inches.

    Originally posted by DennyW


    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/100_0078.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/100_0081.jpg

    In picture 2, if that's what you are calling external linkage, that's not what we meant. That looks like internal to me. Just to the right of your E brake ?
    Michael

  6. #6
    CarNutCertified is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Pryor
    Car Year, Make, Model: 38 desoto,81 chebbie pu
    Posts
    23

    I understand that money is an option. But it sounds to me like your going to have to use the ole trial and error method here. You can always put it together like you think it should work and if it does then run with it. If it dont then back to the old drawing board. Also i just love what was said about everything fitting just correctly and bolts right up in american iron......I am building a 38 desoto (dodge) that has chev suspension atm. and will run a chev motor.....however it looks at though i am going to have to go with a ford suspension because the 78 firebird sus. is too wide for the body. (we think, have to do some measuring) So basicly my Desoto will be a bit of all the big 3.....so here we go cut and weld, cut and weld some more fabricate this fabricate that. But then again this is why we do what we do in this way of life.
    "The most terrifying words in the English language are: I'm from the
    government and I'm here to help."
    - Ronald Reagan

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink