Thread: TH350 no shift when cold?
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09-29-2005 11:42 PM #1
TH350 no shift when cold?
The trans in the 10 has been acting up.I work evenings and for the last two nights when I start the drive home it wont shift out of 1st until 3 or 4 minutes of operation. When it shifts for the first time seems to almost skip 2nd and jump to 3rd. After that it shifts fine.
Got any ideas?
Fluid looks fine.
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09-30-2005 06:46 AM #2
Change the fluid. Yours may be getting thicker than it should be. Filter too, that can cause restricted flow. Try some of that wonder goo that softens seals. Might not help, won't hurt.
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10-04-2005 11:44 AM #3
Let it sit for 10 minuts at an idle first untill you can take it in, sounds like the bands need adjusted, i had the same problem and said "f" it for 330 bucks i had someone rebuild it and put a shift kit in it...
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10-04-2005 03:41 PM #4
filter and fluid. If that don't help, then have it built. TH 350 is about the cheapest auto trans to have built! Now is the time to consider a high stall converter and shift kit ( or programming kit ).
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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10-05-2005 06:54 AM #5
Is this just a ploy to see who will suggest brakefluid? WELL , I won't, cause my neighbor cut down my shade tree and I'm not in that business anymore. rebuild it!
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10-05-2005 03:41 PM #6
Thanks for the suggestions. Think I'll try the fluid and filter first. Seems to be ok if allowed to warm up a bit. Also , dont know if this means anything, if I have to back up first, no shifting problems???? OH, well, at least these are cheap maintanence items. I dont think I have enough motor to require a higher stall convertor do I? about 300hp. 435/ 460 lift cam.
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10-05-2005 05:32 PM #7
When and if you go with a fluid and filter change, just for the sake of things, remove the governor and inspect it. It could be sticking a bit. You say it does it cold, so check the governor when the tranny is cold. That sloppy first shift could be a sign of it unsticking. Going in reverse can unstick it. That could be why it works fine when you go backwards. Hope this helps.
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10-08-2005 07:04 PM #8
Thanks Blue,
anybody got a diagram for TH350? Location of govenor and what nots?
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10-08-2005 07:38 PM #9
its on the left rear next to the rear trans. mount. round cup cover with a clip holding it in . you'll need to tap on it to get it out.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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10-29-2005 09:31 PM #10
NO impovement
Hey guys,
Well after a fluid and filter change there is still no improvement. I checked everything that I could think of, pulled out the governor and it seems free and clean. I also took a look at the modulator and not sure if this is a problem but according to this photo, there is a valve sticking out the hole that the modulator goes in but my trans doesnt have that its just a hole? Not sure about how to test the modulator but there was no fluid at the vac side of the diaphram so I guess thats good. BTW there was a significant amount of metal at the filter and a sludge type grey sand laying on the bottom of the pan???
After warm up (about 8 miles) at times when letting off the throttle, (coast) it will act like its freewheeling, (no engine braking)if I rev up it will take 2nd gear and some times shift to third but sometimes wont go to third. When its in gear it pulls good like there is no slip and not getting hot, even when stuck in second it pulls good although high rpm.
Anyone suggest anything other than rebuild???
Also the kickdown cable has been broken for a while, would this have caused damage?Last edited by s10streeter; 10-29-2005 at 09:35 PM.
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10-30-2005 05:00 AM #11
The broken kickdown is probably the cause of all your problems, including the crap in the pan and filter. Never run a trans without the kickdown! They shift all wierd, and slip and bang at different throttle settings , causing wear and breakage.
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10-30-2005 05:51 AM #12
You might also check the accumulater piston and spring,it's on the drivers side, held in with a snap ring. Under the cover is a spring wwhich pushes in on the piston,sometimes they break.
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10-30-2005 12:26 PM #13
I agree. Metal and grey sludge in the pan is a bad sign.
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11-03-2005 09:18 PM #14
on the bench ready for overhaul
Ready to start overhaul on the 350.
My first try at the rebuild. Got the manual. Doesnt look that complicated, just have to follow instructions carefully and keep everything super clean.
Waiting on kit to arrive. I bought the one with the red clutches and Kolene steels, kevlar band, bushings, seals, adjustable modulator, filter and gaskets. Price was high but I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for and hoping to not have to do this again for a while. Besides, I'm a sucker for a good pitch, on the field and in retail. Friend bets I get discouraged and bag eveything up and take it to the local shop but, I dont intend on losing any bets on this one.
Wish me luck and give any pointers that you can.
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11-03-2005 10:09 PM #15
the hard part will be compressing the spring packs on the drums but you can make some thing up i have used 2 C lamps and on the front pump flip it and i use the case to line up the front pump haves .to bolt them up
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel