Thread: Building a strong TH350

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I have a TH350 (i think just the shifter linkage is bad) and i'm going to possible rebuild it (if it needs it) and i would like to put in a new torque convertor, and a shift kit, because the stock 1.76 powerglide just ISN'T cutting it. I was going to go with a built 700R4 w/a hydraulic lockup conversion, a 2800stall , and a stage 2 shift kit.

I was looking at B&M convertors and they are saying i need 265+ degree cam etc and 3.00 gears or higher and at least 10:1.1 compession etc.

My question
I have a 70 nova with a rebuilt 80-85' 305 v8, and a stock TH350. I will be putting a shift kit in it and would like to add a new convertor too, so what would be my best bet? It's a daily driver, and it goes over 2k miles a month. I want something street/strip friendly. The TH350 in it's stock form will be a big improvement over the Powerglide, but my old torque convetor got thrown away so i figure i'll cough up the extra few bills to get a name brand higher stall one. Any suggestions?

Dallas

Originally posted by DallasHannah3
I have a TH350 (i think just the shifter linkage is bad) and i'm going to possible rebuild it (if it needs it) and i would like to put in a new torque convertor, and a shift kit, because the stock 1.76 powerglide just ISN'T cutting it. I was going to go with a built 700R4 w/a hydraulic lockup conversion, a 2800stall , and a stage 2 shift kit.

I was looking at B&M convertors and they are saying i need 265+ degree cam etc and 3.00 gears or higher and at least 10:1.1 compession etc.

My question
I have a 70 nova with a rebuilt 80-85' 305 v8, and a stock TH350. I will be putting a shift kit in it and would like to add a new convertor too, so what would be my best bet? It's a daily driver, and it goes over 2k miles a month. I want something street/strip friendly. The TH350 in it's stock form will be a big improvement over the Powerglide, but my old torque convetor got thrown away so i figure i'll cough up the extra few bills to get a name brand higher stall one. Any suggestions?

Dallas

sounds like to me all you need is a good stock conv.

I agree with Mike. Don't get a stall converter unless you really need one, especially with a daily driver you will eat up more gas and put more heat to the tranny. What type of driving do you do with it, stop and go or long highway hauls? Either way get you a stock converter.

I live 1 mile from my work so i will only be driving there and every now and then for errands. The only highway driving i really do is to my ex wife's house on the other side of florida (her westcoast, me on the east) So it's like 200 miles. The thing is, i am also trying to make this a strip worthy car. I'd like to get 13s at least. I mean, half the kids in orlando in their CRXs and Civics are running mid 13s with just a nice dose of NOS. I am planning on running a 327 (was offered a 454 for $800 with an edlebrock 850 carb) cuz i like small blocks and a blown 327 would be fun.

My goal = still be drivable daily and have SOME street manners, a bumpy idle is fine, a harsh necksnapping shift is fine. I run open fulllength headers, no A/C, no P/S, no power brakes, I only have plastic racing buckets in. I'm not worried about creature comforts or smooth driving. I want it to be streetable, but still just tear into an unsuspecting mustang GT or whatever. Right now I run a stock (well, it has headers and an intake) 305, est 160hp, 240ftbs. with a 4bbl qjet that's about to get a good tuning. It gets pretty good gas mileage and is peppy but a complete dog off the line. 2.73 rear end and 1.76 trans 2spd powerglide. ICK. i can't floor it from a stop and beat an auto civic off the line. So i know a TH350 will make it a little better, but geez, lol, I don't think i can beat my own to 60mph. haha

Dallas

So a stock or like 2000rpm max would be best for me?

I have an aluminum radiator (from a 90 chevy celebrity with transcooler) and it seems to keep the tranny nice and cool in the hot florida weather, but im getting a trans temp gauge to be sure! lol.

I should really post a picture of my car huh?

as far as a performance converter, if you get the first 'up' from stock, you probably won't feel it much. I know I didn't, in the wife's dodge. ( my mechanic friend could hear it though ). Get the 2nd 'up' from stock; that you will WILL be able to feel, and it won't tear anything up. DON'T get wild, or you won't be able to drive it in the rain. ( the rear end will slide sideways every time you start off... there is NO starting off soft with a wild converter ) If you are feeling paranoid about heat, then add a trans cooler.

Off the line isn't all there is... I am running a 2.41 rear with a TH350 in my 78 firebird. ( chevy 305 ) Sure, the civic will feel pretty good about himself.. for about the first 1/8 - mile. But, they start wondering what they got ahold of, when at about 60MPH they are well into second gear, and my trans shifts HARD into second and I grab a car length in the blink of an eye. If by some twisted reason of fate or stubbornness, they are still with me at 90 they get to hear me grab third gear.

if they are still close enough to hear the exhaust, that is.

My point is, with a 'hiway' ratio in the rear end, you have a wider range in-between gears, and of course, a higher overall top end ( if you got the torque ). Also, you of course have higher range in each gear.. meaning what? Meaning you can dump it into second at 70 for sheer passing power. Best not try that with a 4.11, unless you have a SCREAMING motor that can really turn.

Go for the big block, NOTHING BEATS CUBES. You would be pretty amazed what that beast would do with that street rear you got. ( break it maybe )

One more thing.. put in power brakes. It's only your life, you know.

go by what b&m says, if you dont have a good cam and some good power, the stall conv. will hurt you. you dont need one.