Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Simply, What torque converter?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    fiftee6's Avatar
    fiftee6 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Bridgewater
    Car Year, Make, Model: '56 210, SBC
    Posts
    55

    Simply, What torque converter?

     



    So I've done the rear, asked questions to you all about radiators (by the way, just bought an aluminum crossflow, I've gotta post some pics, looks great).

    Now I'm doing the trans. Gonna take out the TH350 and go w/700r4. By spring, I should have a new 383GM crate also. I know, I have asked also about big block conversions, but I've decided on the 383 route. So, here's the question:::

    I still have the 283 which is mildly modified. I have 3.70's in the rear. I just dont get this whole stall speed thing? I have read over and over, but not getting it. I want to get this 700r in and be able to come out of the hole nice, you know, leave some BF goodie on the street. As it is now, its a dog. Even if I try to power brake, it just cannot come up in rpms, just seems to bog. Now when I hit about 2000rpms, car starts to sound awesome-and move too. I'd say my power band is about 1800-4500. Does this mean if I get a converter with a stall of say 1800-2200 that the car will not move until this rpm??? And if so, does it just grab or lock like popping a clutch??? Just need a simple explanation. If I can get a little better out of the hole, I may keep engine longer. It runs so good.

    Oh, and will I be able to ust the same for the 383. Thanks all.
    "I also have a tuner, the reception's not to good, but it works"
    Phil...

  2. #2
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
    C9x is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N/W Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: Deuce Highboy roadster
    Posts
    1,174

    If the engine responds quickly to throttle when coming off-idle, you may want to try 'flashing' the converter.

    That'll give you a harder hit (locks at a higher rpm) than it would if you did the power-brake bit.

    Higher stall converters are like a stick shift/clutch setup to an extent.
    Similar to spinning the engine up then dumping the clutch.

    There are compromises though.
    Get a converter with too high a stall rpm and it won't lock up when cruising the highways and will generate heat - to an excess if a too-high stall is chosen.

    Bigger - read more torque - engines will stall a converter at a higher rpm than will a smaller engine that develops less torque.

    Running in overdrive with the 700 trans will probably result in a 2400 rpm stall converter slipping at highway speeds . . . at least it will be that way until you exceed the speed limit.

    MPH = tire diameter x RPM divided by axle ratio x 336

    Running in overdrive will drop the rpm about 30% so it's doubtful you'd have full lockup at normal highway speeds.

    The car will move at idle rpm levels with a 2200 rpm converter - like when you're maneuvering in a parking lot - and sometimes you have to ease a little throttle in to get where you want to go.
    This depends to an extent on rear axle ratio as well as trans low gear ratio as well as how heavy the car is, but as a general rule, idle rpms will move the car on level pavement quite well.
    C9

  3. #3
    Irelands child's Avatar
    Irelands child is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Ballston Lake
    Car Year, Make, Model: Ford 5.0L '31 A Brookville Roadster
    Posts
    667

    Phil,
    Rather than a ho-hum description - this outfit has a pretty good description of an aftermarket unit. I'm not advocating the use their product, I use another company, but these folks have a better write up.

    http://www.protorque.com/techi/ti_al.htm
    Dave

  4. #4
    fiftee6's Avatar
    fiftee6 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Bridgewater
    Car Year, Make, Model: '56 210, SBC
    Posts
    55

    C9,
    I think I understand. With the th350 now, at highway 55-60, Im taching about 2800-2900. Tires are 28".
    What if the 700 has this lock-up feature?
    "I also have a tuner, the reception's not to good, but it works"
    Phil...

  5. #5
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Little Elm
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
    Posts
    3,890

    Running in overdrive with the 700 trans will probably result in a 2400 rpm stall converter slipping at highway speeds . . . at least it will be that way until you exceed the speed limit.
    Running a 700-R4 without a lockup provision is playing Russian Roulette with your trans and your $$$$ - even with a stock torque converter. That's why all of the stock installations have lockup. There are simple kits available.

    http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink