Thread: When do you need a stall converter?

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Hey guys, running a C6 behind the 429, Lokar shifter. How do I know if we need a stall converter in it? any other recommendations on beefing up the transmission? I think the only thing that has been done to it is an inexpensive shift kit.

if it matter the numbers say that it is probably putting out just over 400hp, getting more than 300 to the tires (just punched in the cam specs into an online calculate and left the other numbers stock). rear end is a ford 9". it is going to be spinning 31x12x15 hoosier pro streets. (I don't know what factors would decide the stall converter so giving you all the info.)

Red

Depends mostly on what the cam specs are I guess...Not sure, still a manual transmission guy myself. Some of the gang will be around with their thoughts if you put up some cam and compression specs..... The one thing I do know about stall converters is that the higher the stall, the more heat they generate!!!!

Does this have the information to figure it out, I copied from summits sight

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,400-5,600
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 262 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.514 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.524 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.514 int./0.524 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 111
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Grind Number: FF X4 262H-11

I have no idea what it all means though

Red

Some of the members on the National T Bucket Alliance were just discussing this, and say they are running 3000-3300 stall speed convertors because of the light weight of the cars. Seems very high to me, but they swear by them. Mine is only 2200 in the T, and the roller cam idles pretty low, so I hope it doesn't lurch too much when shifting into forward or reverse.

Don

the weight has alot to do with the stall .weight gear and tire size . a the same stall in a light car will move the car at lower rpm. but the same stall in a heavy car will not stall the same .it will stall higher with the same tire and gear from the weight to move it . cam ,carbs ,cr ,cid has alot to do with this to .when i get custom stalls they ask you all of this and more. buying one that one size fits all .you could be hi or on the low side of the stall stamp on the box

where would I order it that they would ask all this? 1700 sounds good but I want to make sure that really is where it ends up working if those other things can throw it off.

It is a 51' F1, going to probably be a bit heavier than it was because we are replacing the floor of the bed with 10ga. steel rather than wood kit (not my call). I appreciate the help guys.

Denny, would I set the redline on the tach at about 5600 then? (the tach on there doesn't work, I know it isn't idling at 800 and I know it is revving a lot higher than about 3500 indicated) We are going with this gauge set probably.

http://www.classicinstruments.com/ga...&SeriesCode=HR

tci are not that good at one time they were. i had 4 of them go a way . thats what happens when they sell a mass amounts. quality can go down .i use Coan they are one of the best and sell a lower price street type stall, there is other s but i used and some of my customers have used the Coans from 1300. to 350. they seam to work good when i have called they never push you off

Pat I found the coan website, they have a street performer model. what does the diameter of the converter have to do with it all? I shot them an email giving them the vehicle information and asking if that is the right one.

Red

the size of the converter can change the stall a smaller core size can have a more stall