Thread: towing car with Tremec trans

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Guys,

Can a car with a Tremec TKO type transmission be safely towed "out" of gear using a front wheel "dolly" ?

Last time we were at the track (about a 180 mile round trip) his engine builder suggested that it was NOT good to tow the car using a towing "dolly" (that lifts the front end off the ground) leaving the rear wheels on the road turning the output shaft of the trans.

The assumption was there is NO lubrication to the trans unless the INPUT shaft is turning, and the trans, bearings/gears whatever will be damaged.

He thought there was a pump driven by the input shaft, without the engine running there will be inadequate lube for towing.

Aren't automotive type manual trans "splash" lubed? ie: oil climbing the gears and sloshing around. Did not think there was a actual pump like in an automatic trans.

My friends tow vehicle is hard pressed to pull the Cobra (~2600 lbs) and U-Haul type trailer ( placarded at 2200 lbs).

Buying a good, light weight trailer is a pain, mainly due to storage, but can't be ruining the trans...

Thanks,

Pete

That's hysterical.....that engine builder should stick to what he knows best.
The countershaft creats lubrication for all functions. It rotates while the main shaft is rotating. Drive shaft rotates the assembly when towed.
Tow it and feel comfortable about it.

Guys,

Thanks for the input. Just to split hairs...

I assume a manual transmission that is being towed LEVEL like a tow-bar on the car, would not have a problem as the trans gears/bearings are about half immersed in the oil anyway, even with out the gear splash.

The complication relates to using a DOLLY and towing the car with nose up.

Since the nose of the car is up at an angle would there would be a bearing, roller or otherwise, at the front of the case not getting sufficient lube?

Seemed unlikely to me, but cheaper to ask some dumb questions then deal with pulling a trans.

Dropping the drive shaft isn't really practical on some of the Cobra replicas. On my ERA Cobra (maybe my friends Backdraft too) the drive shaft comes out from the top. Remove the seats, trans tunnel and then you can get to the u-joint to remove it. PITHA.

Thanks again,

Pete

There is nothing wrong with backing the car onto the tow dolly and dragging the front wheels!

When being towed, a stick trans has only the output shaft turning. The countershaft and input shaft are stationary. Not a problem on a short tow, 10 or 20 miles, but 90 miles is a bit much. The center bearing in the main shaft can seize up. Either start the engine for a few seconds every 20 miles or so, or do as suggested and put the rear wheels on the dolly. Be sure to lock the steering.

Nitrowarrior is partially correct--the countershaft lubes the trans but it only turns with the input shaft, not the main(output)shaft.
If it is really necessary to tow the car, you could overfill the trans so the mainshaft would be covered with lube and then lower the fluid level on arrival----

But the best method is using an enclosed trailer, and the protection/security you get will make you never, ever look toward open towing again

ken therm makes a trailer that folds up and stands up against the wall check out his web sight it's really neat deal I think I'm going to buy one next year.......ted

Hi Pete,
If your TKO is in neutral and the tires are spinning only the mainshaft spins. The input & custer along with every gear stays still. I would NOT tow far in neutral. I would remove the driveshaft or dollies for the rear.....
BTW, This is the same in all manual transmissions. Autos don't like being towed either.

i've been towing cars all my life and in a manualthe only thing that dose not turn is the input shaft,the counter shaft will turn lubing the mainshaft.there are no pumps in a manual trans

Guess you never took a trans apart

Guys,

Thanks for the input, will limit nose up towing in the future. Bought a trailer.

Using the two-wheel dolly, with the resulting "nose high" attitude, that got us worried. Whatever was, or wasn't spinning, seemed having all the lube pooled away from the front of the trans was asking for trouble.

Best solution, bought a brand new trailer last week. Dual axles, two wheel brakes, dove tail.

Price was very reasonable. Would have really liked an enclosed trailer, but too pricey at the moment and harder to store.

Pete

There ya go Pete!!! No reason to abuse the equipment before you get to where you're going!!!!! Now that you have a trailer, you'll wonder how the heck you ever managed without one!!!!!!

Pete, I would strongly suggest getting a winch for loading the car as it is much easier on your clutch when your headed to the races----
and if you haven't finalized the deal, look into 4 wheel brakes----you'll really appreciate them when you need them

Guys,

Thanks for the input, my friend feels more justified to have bought the new trailer. Aside from avoiding the potential trans damage, no more renting U-Haul "ton-O-fun" 2-axle trailers (flat tires) or "dollies".

I get to borrow the trailer in the pictures. Another friend of mine designed and built it for a Can-Am car he used to run (Lola T-70). It is so low you can drive a Can-Am or F-1 car right on. Doesn't quite get all the way to the ground so a length of 2X10 with a bevel on one end helps for a smooth drive on. A winch would be great, but not really necessary.

The hydraulic pump & 12v battery are in the storage box up front.

I'll put in a plug for the trailer builder...if you like the cast wheels on the Cobra and the trailer, try Phil of PS Engineering. He won't make you a trailer but he makes great vintage wheels. Cast, two-piece, pin-drive, bolt on, any size or off-set. Cobra type, kidney bean, whatever you need for a project.

Phil's web site: http://www.psvintagewheels.com/gallery.html

Apologies if the photo files are too large...

Pete