Thread: Richmond Super T10?

Tweet

Richmond superT10 what do you guys think of this trans is it strong enough to handle a 600hp big block?

Ask them..

http://www.richmondgear.com/index.html

There are several factors that will come into play with "how much horsepower" will any component handle. Many times the failure is due to "operator error" i.e., "I revved 'er to 8 grand and dumped the clutch and the transmission blew up!" Not said is that this happened with 4.56 gears and twelve inch slicks on a 4,000 pound car with a stock transmission...

Call or email Richmond with your equipment configuration and discuss the intended use. They're very knowledgeable and helpful.

Regards,
Glenn

I already got the trans for a great deal and am not familiar with richmond products was just wondering if anybody here has much experiance with them such as how well they shift under load and for drag racing if they can take powershifting?

Hi Thor,
Which model T-10 do you have? Richmond has several different gear ratios. The 2.43 is the strongest. It will take a fair amount of power but small tires and spped shifting will give it a chance. A set of slicks and high RPM dropping of the clutch and power shifting WILL cause it's early demise. Whatever you do don't install a twin disc clutch. The best way to have it last is to treat it like it will break. Be nice to it and you can drive it hard.
FWI: I am a distributor for Richmond and have been selling the T-10 and 4+1 5 speed since the Doug Nash days starting in 1982.

the dual disc clutch takes load off the trans!!! why would you recomend not using one?

Hi gasser,
I'm not here to disagree but every transission failure I've know of has had a twin disc clutch. The have so much torque transfer that the gears get overloaded and break usually 3rd gear. All that said I have know of dozens of broken used or new trannys. The twin disc clutch kit is the common denominator of these broken trannies. If you have lots of power a slipper clutch will help a transmissions life expectancy....

thats what most of the dual discs are for, example mcleod zoom and ram, make them so they work coming out of the hole, but i understand what you mean about a slipper clutch. this is why i am going with a ram sintered iron unit.

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

thats what most of the dual discs are for, example mcleod zoom and ram, make them so they work coming out of the hole, but i understand what you mean about a slipper clutch. this is why i am going with a ram sintered iron unit.

That's all very true, Scooter..... But a lot of the dudes running the dual disc's and stuff don't know how to set the clutch to make life easy for the rest of the drivetrain.... Heck, I didn't learn that till I broke a lot of driveline parts either!!!!!

Mike is right though, heard a bunch of guys talk about their broken trannies cuz of the dual disc clutches....... I suppose the majority of the guys just go with the "more is better" idea on the clutch and go max hook on the launch and break a ton of parts..... In drag racing, since I switched to my Soft-lok's I haven't broke any driveline parts--not even a U-joint!!! Proper setup and a good maintenance program on the rest of the driveline saves a ton of money down the road!!!!!!

Thats good info I have the 243 ratio and it is the s model supposedly the road race version or nascar trans according to the Richmond info I have,What do you recommend in clutch's I will be drag racing once in a while with a set of 10.5 M/T.slicks.

Well for combined street/strip use, a comprimise would be in order... A track only clutch like the soft-lok I run would be a nightmare on the street, and a little wussy street clutch isn't going to live long up in front of those slicks....

Scooter (Gassersrule) is going to run a Ram clutch in his.... He has the details on another thread here...Let me see if I can find it for you......

It's titled--- no more crap-o-matic! Him and Jerry Clayton have some specifics worked out as to spring weights, arms, etc.... Might want to check that thread out....

Hi,
I drag raced, road raced and street drove a Soft Lok clutch with 4.10 rear gears and a GM 3550 starting in 1993.. The Tremec 3550 was the base model I modified to become the first GM Tremec. The TKO-500 & TKO-600 replaced my GM 3550 (and GM TKO) model I developed and marketed before Tremec released their GM TKO models.

Originally Posted by mike forte

Hi,
I drag raced, road raced and street drove a Soft Lok clutch with 4.10 rear gears and a GM 3550 starting in 1993.. The Tremec 3550 was the base model I modified to become the first GM Tremec. The TKO-500 & TKO-600 replaced my GM 3550 (and GM TKO) model I developed and marketed before Tremec released their GM TKO models.

Hey Mike, you have anything pending on some adjustable clutches????? I know you have the good packages, but I like lots of adjustments in a clutch----or would it just lead to lots of problems with the peeps who don't want to learn how to set up and adjust a clutch??????? Maybe a double disc with good adjustment and good disc selection to work with the TKO's???? Probably just come out to be too expensive????

dave you might want to look into a bonifante or crower glide pedal clutch for infinite adjustability.

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

dave you might want to look into a bonifante or crower glide pedal clutch for infinite adjustability.

Yeah, used to run a crower glide... Don't even know what I'm looking for really,,,,,some kind of dual disc with different plates in front and back... Think I need to build a clutch dyno??????

Or, maybe I just think too dang much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!