Thread: Muncie 4 speed is hard to shift

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It seems to me that you could check the clutch release clearance with a long gauge through the clutch release fork opening. I think my Hayes has about .010+ clearance, but if you adjust it so that it just barely turns freely without any drag, it should be good.

Originally Posted by Rrumbler

It seems to me that you could check the clutch release clearance with a long gauge through the clutch release fork opening. I think my Hayes has about .010+ clearance, but if you adjust it so that it just barely turns freely without any drag, it should be good.

That's a good idea but there is not enough room to get to the fork opening.
The car that it's in is a Holden Torana(about the size and shape as a chevy Monza). It's not meant to have a Chev motor and transmission.
When I installed it I left the shifter out so I could put my hand through the floor and turn the drive shaft. I put it in first with a wrench. Then pressed the clutch pedal I could turn it over for about 1/3 of the movement of the pedal.
I might have to get a master cylinder with a longer stroke or larger diameter.

Cheers Manky

It's been a long time since I've been inside of a Muncie. The brass blocker rings have already been discussed. Plain old 90 wt gear lube is what was used. Some used ATF back in the day but that was before ATF had all the new additives. I would not use it today.

I would look to the bearing in the rear of the input shaft where the nose of the output shaft goes. If this little bearing gets rough it can cause a drag on the output shaft and cause shifting problems. I've only seen this a few times back in the old days but on a revived trans it is a possibility.

Also any of the bearings can cause problems. The input shaft, the main ball bearing on the output shaft, even the tail shaft bushing, and the cluster rollers. Usually these are noise problems but a failed one that causes sticking would cause drag similar to clutch drag.

I think if the clutch is dragging you might not get it in gear from neutral clutch out and getting it into reverse would be a problem too.

Right next to this is the pilot bearing. If this fails the input shaft will try to turn at crankshaft speed and cause all kinds of problems.

Jack the car up and put it on stands. Start the motor and put the trans in gear, step on the brakes. Let the brakes off and see if the rear tires start turning. If they start turning the clutch is probably not releasing completely or the pilot bearing has failed.

I'd go thru the whole trans and check things out. They are not difficult to take apart. These are very sweet when they work. A good hurst shifter is a must.

I've changed to a different oil SAE 80 GL-4 and it's better but not as good as it could be. I'll run it for s a few weeks then change it again. To make sure that all the GL-5 is flushed out. A new shifter is on my shopping list. There a some good swap meets coming up soon so I hope to find one there if not it'll be when we get to America. If that doesn't work then I'll have to strip it down, are there any good workshop manuals that I should be on the lookout for ?

I've found the problem. It was to do with the arm that comes from the side of the box. Where it attaches to the shifter rod. It was twisted and and putting pressure on each end of the shift rod and the shifter it self. All I had to do was loosen the lock nuts then retighten them.
So thanks for trying to help now you are all my new best friends

but remember NO GL-5 gl-4 only gear oil that is