Thread: Transmission Cooler - Heat Sink Type Do these work?

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Would one of the Heat Sink Type transmission coolers be sufficient for a stock 350 Turbo with a 225 HP SBC? These coolers can be mounted on the frame near the trans and don't need a fan. I don't have room for a cooler in front of the radiator.

Derale Cooling Products 13260 - Derale Performance Heat Sink Transmission Coolers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Yep. The double pass ones are a little better but they all work as long as they are somewhat in the airflow when moving. We've used them a few times with good results.

Don

Here is how I mounted the same cooler you show on my 23.

It will work fine, but I will also say 225hp and a 350 really will not need a cooler. Plenty of your combos running the highways just fine. If you are not towing and do not have a high stall converter no real need for a cooler.

I have a single pass version on my T Bucket and it seems to work fine. Mine is mounted sideways on my frame as that is all I had room for. You can see where I had to mount mine in the top left of the picture. Not an ideal location, but it seems to work fine.

Hate to disagree guys but they don't work as efficiently as a proper matrix type, in those lightweight T's you won't see a lot of heat unless you have a hi stall convertor, in anything else i would use a proper cooler.

Some guys just loop the line, Steve, not sure how those work, but the double pass types shown are way better than the ones that go into the radiator tank. On the one in my 23 I could put my hand on it after running and it was just slightly warm.

Don

All to often we add a cooler never installing a trans temp gauge still driving blind to what is going on.

Hey Don Snr. does the cat aid the cooling and did you remove that extra before you sold the T??? Hey Guys, have an excellent Christmas guys and don't eat too much eh......

Back on the subject of coolers\

This is what I have - 24" double pass, on the outside of the frame rails and in the air path. I do have a temp gauge on the transmission and to date, never have seen over 180-185 degrees on a hot day.

Trans cooler.jpg

If I were running a drag car this is the kind I would install, as they tend to really get hot from hi stall convertors and hard usage.

Don

Originally Posted by IC2

Back on the subject of coolers\

This is what I have - 24" double pass, on the outside of the frame rails and in the air path. I do have a temp gauge on the transmission and to date, never have seen over 180-185 degrees on a hot day.

Attachment 52311

Dave, is that the only cooler for the trans or are you also using the cooler in the radiator? The reason I'm asking is, my PRC radiator didn't include a trans cooler in the lower tank and I'm going to have to use an auxiliary cooler like yours and Don's.

Mike

Mike - that's all I'm using. I still have the one in the bottom of the Walker radiator that I can add to the system if I ever see 200++ degree tranny temp on a regular basis

Originally Posted by IC2

Back on the subject of coolers\

This is what I have - 24" double pass, on the outside of the frame rails and in the air path. I do have a temp gauge on the transmission and to date, never have seen over 180-185 degrees on a hot day.

Attachment 52311

Any thoughts on running 2 of these things on my frame rails for a 496CI with a 4L80E tranny with a stock stall converter?
I have no space in front of my condensor and a custom aluminum rad w/o a built in cooler.

Thanks Dave, that's great to hear, I feel much better knowing you and Don have used these successfully as standalone coolers.

Mike

Originally Posted by 123pugsy

Any thoughts on running 2 of these things on my frame rails for a 496CI with a 4L80E tranny with a stock stall converter?
I have no space in front of my condensor and a custom aluminum rad w/o a built in cooler.

Pugsy - Two series would work well - maybe a single pass feeding into a double or two doubles with the plumbing connections facing each other to cut down on the amount of tube runs.

A question to Don Jr - have you had any problems with that starter solenoid exposed like that. One of my winter projects is to clean up the trunk and that's one of my considerations along with maybe moving the battery underneath if I can find enough clear space.

Mike - add a $15-$20 temp sender matching your gauges from Egauges to your trans oil pan and a SPDT switch and you can use your water temp gauge to monitor the ATF temperature with a flick of the finger.