Thread: Stall Converter.... Need help deciding

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I'm looking for a new stall converter. I'm having issues with shifting to drive or reverse there's a pretty hard jerk with about 1200 rpm idle (cold with choke on, although it shifts all gears with a nice firm shift) plus I'm wanting the performance off the line as well.

1972 C10 1/2 ton
mild 350, performer rpm cam (soon to be 383 with larger duration cam)
700R4
3.73 rear gears
~ 28" tires.

1) I was thinking either a 2400 to 3000?
2) Also how do I know which spline I need? I've seen 30 and 27.
3) Also advantages disadvantages of lockup?
4) Brands good bad??

THANKS!

whats A BIG CAM ? need real numbers try turning down the idle

"Soon to be a 383"...
Doing a converter now is a waste of money... That 350 will want a whole lot different stall then a 383. Wait till the 383 is done and you can talk to a converter manufacturer about your combo. They are going to need to know EVERYTHING... Carb, cam, compression, trans. gears, etc., etc.
With a mild 350 and that cam it shouldn't be idling at 1200 rpm... Do like Pat said and turn the idle down. Sounds like you need to do some tuning to get your current combo optimized.

Originally Posted by astroracer

"Soon to be a 383"...
Doing a converter now is a waste of money... That 350 will want a whole lot different stall then a 383. Wait till the 383 is done and you can talk to a converter manufacturer about your combo. They are going to need to know EVERYTHING... Carb, cam, compression, trans. gears, etc., etc.
With a mild 350 and that cam it shouldn't be idling at 1200 rpm... Do like Pat said and turn the idle down. Sounds like you need to do some tuning to get your current combo optimized.

yes good catch i did not see soon to be 383 . have to get my seeing eye dog on my lap. tune up. carb work timming is in order.i was going to say your doing this not the way i work out a engine build . i do not jamb a cam in with out working out the rest of the build like gear .stall weight rpm and the most out put i can get with out of a build by not making it drivable or what the trade offs are and what the customer is willing to upgrade at time of build to get the best out come. a 350 from a 383 on a box stock cheap stall may not move the stall to much maybe 250/400 rpm max if your using all the same parts in the 383 as in the old 350 . easy way is to call the company that builds stalls. but i can tell you i have had custom stalls made for smaller 500 CID engines and went up to 600 cid engies and from mid 400 cid to 550 with a blower were it did not move the stall alot many things come in to play then just cid if you make the call to order a stall go with a smaller stall most times they give you a min and a max to what it will stall out at so when you build the bigger should be close to middle to hi end of stall ok for the 350 but should work out better with the 383

B&M Holeshot 2400 did a good job for me with a crate 350 and 6-71 blower. They have a 3000 if you are building a badder motor. It's a trade-off of course; higher stall speed means more slippage around town, and more heat. A tranny cooler can help with that.

There may have been some confusion, the 1200 idle is only cold while on fast idle and the choke on. Normal driving when warm the idle sets around 600 and idles quite nicely. As far as timing, carb, tune up, etc... The motor runs great and is very responsive. Timing is at 10 degrees and currently vacuum is setting around 14" the best I remember. As of now the only concern I have is when shifting to reverse or drive it "lurches" a little more than I would like and was considering a stall converter for the reasons above. The 383 build is around a year off, so not in the immediate future. I'm still saving, so I can do it right.

Currently the 350 is running 9.5:1, Edlebrock performer rpm cam, world aluminum heads 2.02/1.60 with 64cc chambers, 1.5 ratio roller rockers, Performer RPM intake and a Edlebrock 1406 600cfm carb. When the 383 is done, I was considering a little larger cam with longer duration with intake and carb to match but this will move the rpm range outside of how the truck will be driven, so I may keep the rpm cam.

@Potvinguy, There is a cooler installed, but I'm upgrading it to a fan driven cooler when I install the converter.

Since everyones experience is above mine, feel free to let me know your recommendations.

Since your going to "upgrade" with a 383 and more cam.. I'd wait until I chose the cam and then go by their recommendations. No sense buying it now and then not having the correct stall for the new motor / cam. My point oh two!

well thinking your getting a stall for under 450. and getting it tuned in to your build may not happen like many think as engine size moves up with all part being the same may be same part number. been here done it many times have spent $1000.s on stall s over the years. a part number for the 350 may still end up being the same converter for the 383 . many things come in to play .it has alot to do with the company core size will be the same .thats why you should call the converter company not the store you buy it from .they may work with you getting the rigth stator and core size . i use coan for customer builds and me .there converter are more money then most but you get what you pay for the one i have one that was 1200. and made for my car other was $700 10 years ago . i been threw many other makes over the years . i would not comment on them. but spent alot of money on busted junk

22-2400 stall. 3K isn't so great on the street

Get a B&M stall control too.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

22-2400 stall. 3K isn't so great on the street

Get a B&M stall control too.

every day driver no . but 2400to 3000 is nothing i have used may 11s 10s and 9 core size on the street that any were from 3000to 4500 its not like many think cars will mover under stall but will make some heat . i use a stack plate cooler never lost a trans from heat in 30 years of beatting the hell out of things that make alot of power

I've got a 2200 in my nomad with a 383 stroker and 700R4.

I really like having the B&M lockup control. I pretty much leave the lockup off for city traffic, makes for a smoother ride.