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Thread: Which clutch do I need? Chevy engine, Ford Trans
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Which clutch do I need? Chevy engine, Ford Trans

     



    I'v decided to 'tame' my rat rod as I want more of a driver so I think I will use a Chevy 350. Have access to one and a few parts I can put on it. Trans was bought to use behind a 460 and it is a T-18 long tail out of a 1987 Ford truck. I know that it can be made to fit with a few mods and a new bolt hole in the Chevy bellhousing, but what do I do with for a clutch?
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  2. #2
    NTFDAY's Avatar
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    Use a Chevy pressure plate and a Ford clutch disc and whichever throw out bearing works. Don't forget to check the pilot bearing
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  3. #3
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Ok, that makes sense. So like if I use an 11" clutch, I get an 11" ford clutch and a pressure plate for a 11" Chevy clutch. Novak adapters makes a conversion pilot bearing and if my thinking is right, the throwout bearing should be a Ford part for a truck w/ T-18 4spd
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  4. #4
    NTFDAY's Avatar
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    Yes, that sounds right and you'll have to fabricate your clutch linkage, but you probably already knew that. Good luck.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  5. #5
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    Ok, that makes sense. So like if I use an 11" clutch, I get an 11" ford clutch and a pressure plate for a 11" Chevy clutch. Novak adapters makes a conversion pilot bearing and if my thinking is right, the throwout bearing should be a Ford part for a truck w/ T-18 4spd
    You may want to compare the throwout bearing that goes with that Chevy pressure plate to the Ford bearing. The throwout bearing fits around the tranny input shaft, but it rides on the pressure plate fingers, thus the critical dimension may be Chevy? Not sure, just typing while thinking about it, which could be dangerous....
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    You may want to compare the throwout bearing that goes with that Chevy pressure plate to the Ford bearing. The throwout bearing fits around the tranny input shaft, but it rides on the pressure plate fingers, thus the critical dimension may be Chevy? Not sure, just typing while thinking about it, which could be dangerous....

    Shouldn't be a problem, the main difference in the throw out bearing is how the clutch fork attaches
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  7. #7
    Matt167's Avatar
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    I could easily buy a whole slew of throwout bearings to get one that worked. They don't cost that much. As far as a clutch linkage, I was planning on a hydraulic clutch kit. Either a Novak adapters kit which includes a slave, hydraulic clutch fork and a mount or buy a Chevy-landcruiser bracket from Advance Adapters that puts a factory adjustable Toyota slave cylinder on a Chevy bellhousing and then I can buy an OEM or aftermarket hydraulic clutch fork and a slave at the parts store

    I did have an idea tho. If I had a machinist drill a flywheel for a Ford pressure plate, can't I keep it all Ford except the pilot bearing?
    Last edited by Matt167; 05-15-2013 at 11:14 AM.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  8. #8
    NTFDAY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    I could easily buy a whole slew of throwout bearings to get one that worked. They don't cost that much. As far as a clutch linkage, I was planning on a hydraulic clutch kit. Either a Novak adapters kit which includes a slave, hydraulic clutch fork and a mount or buy a Chevy-landcruiser bracket from Advance Adapters that puts a factory adjustable Toyota slave cylinder on a Chevy bellhousing and then I can buy an OEM or aftermarket hydraulic clutch fork and a slave at the parts store

    I did have an idea tho. If I had a machinist drill a flywheel for a Ford pressure plate, can't I keep it all Ford except the pilot bearing?

    I'd go hydraulic and why would flywheel adapted to fit aFord pressure plate? That takes all of the fun out the expression you'll get from the local auto parts counter guy when you tell him you need a Chevy pressure plate and a Ford clutch disc
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  9. #9
    Matt167's Avatar
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    It will be hydraulic, whichever setup I use. Not going to even attempt to fabricate a mechanical linkage.. As for the look on the auto parts counter person's face. It won't work any more as he's used to it. He will get whatever I need, go thru the parts books to find something that will work.. In the past I have made it easier on him by looking up applications on rockauto or Napaonline to find what was needed, then going to him to order the stuff based on my findings. Makes it quicker.. Even his wife ( they own/ run the place togther, been open since 1948 ), tho she can't get everything I need, if I know what I'm looking for, she has no problems ordering parts for 10 different cars so I can put whatever it is I'm working on togther... I could go to Advance Auto and ask for a price on what I need to get a laugh.
    I'm actually in the middle of doing a motor swap on a 1999 Subaru Legacy using a 1996 2.2L motor to replace the toasted 2.5L ( common swap and I got the car cheap ) He has no problem's ordering parts for both as long as I give him the right applications for which parts I'm ordering.
    Last edited by Matt167; 05-15-2013 at 03:32 PM.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  10. #10
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    Matt, you might check the pressure plate offerings. Seems to me that the one I got for the 302 was dual mounts on the tabs - mounting tabs were wide, and there were two different mounting bolt patterns drilled. Not sure any are combo Chevy/Ford, but if I were making clutches I'd sure look at that option to reduce my inventory.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #11
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Good idea. I know some Hayes flywheels are drilled for Ford 3 finger clutches, so it might just work the other way.. I actually had thought about getting a Chevy clutch that would match the trans, but the trans comes up as having a 10 spline 1 1/16" input shaft, and the only GM part that matches that is one that goes to a 3.9L Diesel in the P-30 chassis which is the 4BT Cummins, so it won't work..

    I'm really going to need a spread sheet to keep track of what parts I used so when I break it, I will know what to buy.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  12. #12
    Matt167's Avatar
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    I just got a Bellhousing (P/N 3858403 ) off Ebay for $52 shipped. It is crack free and rings like a bell so it's good. Problem I'm having trouble understanding is, by Novaks description I have to drill and tap a new hole to match the Ford trans, and the other 3 holes will line up with a little work to the trans.. The bellhousing has thick castings where the bolt holes are and they are only about as big as the bolt holes are, and if I drill outside of those castings, it will be in thin aluminum.. Do I need a different bell or could I tap it, then use a stud and back it with a nut and a washer?
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  13. #13
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    I would guess you need a different bell housing. Your main concern should be the pilot beg. and pilot shaft alignment. If some one told you this would work I'd be knocking on there door. Seems like a lot of work to me
    Charlie
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  14. #14
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cffisher View Post
    I would guess you need a different bell housing. Your main concern should be the pilot beg. and pilot shaft alignment. If some one told you this would work I'd be knocking on there door. Seems like a lot of work to me
    It's actually information from Novak adapters. They sell bearing retainers that fit the Chevy bell and Chevy- Ford pilot bushings..

    From Novak's description
    "Transmission Front Face Bolt Holes
    On the front face 1966 and newer Ford four-speed transmissions, the upper two mounting holes are each about 1/4 of a bolt hole off from the upper two holes in a GM bellhousing. If the holes in the Ford transmission ears are filed to be slightly elongated, they will match up with their mountings to the GM bellhousing. It may be recommended at this point that you test fit the transmission to the detached bellhousing, which will facilitate the next step.

    On the lower front face of the Ford transmission are two ears that, if stock, are undrilled. The lower left ear can be drilled to easily match the hole in the lower left of the GM bellhousing. The right ear can then be drilled. It will not meet up with any hole in the GM bellhousing, so it is necessary that you drill and tap one to match. Use the same size bolt as you do for the other three. If you are not equipped with the tapping tools or the disposition to tap a good, clean set of threads, you may take this to a machinist as well. "

    My transmission was sold as coming out of an '87 F-150 so it should work.. I have a Ford 351/400 4spd bell I can check to see how far off it really is
    Last edited by Matt167; 06-03-2013 at 02:27 PM.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  15. #15
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    Seems to me that you have it under control, good luck
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

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