Thread: Clutch pedal adjustment

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I just got a new engine installed in my 1970 C10 and took it for my first stroll around the block. The clutch pedal nearly pushes to the floor and releases almost as soon as i let pressure off of the pedal. Its got a brand spanking new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing on it. The adjusting rod that attaches just in front of the bell housing is almost adjusted all the way out. Is there a rod or linkage inside the cab that can adjust it some more?

on my 69 c10 there is a solid rod from the clutch pedal to the bellcrank than an adjustable rod between it an the clutchfork.
do you have this arrangement



not a good photo but the solid rod is not in place at the moment- it comes out of the rubber grommet and onto the bellcrank which is between the mtr an chassis.
if you have this arrangement then you may have left the cast iron piece off the end of the bottom adjusting rod- its about an inch long an fits between the rodend an the clutchfork.
can you post some pics of underneath?

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You probably need to replace the pivot bushings

Give me a few minutes I will have some pictures I think I have the same set up.

From LMC Truck, a pictorial of all the linkage pieces involved - Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

this isn't the best picture its hard to get into position to get a good picture, but the nut next to the oil filter is the adjustment nuts for the clutch pedal as far as i can tell.

I figured it out I had to do a "custom job" It will work for a few weeks before I start the big project this winter

Originally Posted by Lefcrak

I figured it out I had to do a "custom job" It will work for a few weeks before I start the big project this winter

It's what hot rodders do, make stuff work. Good job.

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well done-- the other thing I found with mine was the upper none adjustable rod was severely worn on its pivit points and I had to build it up with weld. its probably about the same amount as your washers , so I would recommend checking that at some stage.
love the pictures-keep it up


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Thanks I learn something new about my truck every day

Hey i'm mike a new member
In my experience your Z bar welds gave up or maybe you got the wrong throw out bearings. Chevy makes 2, one is 1 7\8‘s other is 1 1\4 . Wrong one. and your pedal free travel goes south.

Don't know about your particular setup, but I have seen guys put the Z bar in backwards, throwing the arm ratios all wrong. Just a thought......

Originally Posted by mikeselcamino

Hey i'm mike a new member
In my experience your Z bar welds gave up or maybe you got the wrong throw out bearings. Chevy makes 2, one is 1 7\8‘s other is 1 1\4 . Wrong one. and your pedal free travel goes south.

The throwout bearing is correct I made sure of that before installing it. I think what changed how my clutch pedal worked is I went from a 70's - 70's 350 to a mid 90's 350 the pressure plate was a different thickness than the older one. It still fit the truck fine but it did change things slightly.

Originally Posted by Lefcrak

The throwout bearing is correct I made sure of that before installing it. I think what changed how my clutch pedal worked is I went from a 70's - 70's 350 to a mid 90's 350 the pressure plate was a different thickness than the older one. It still fit the truck fine but it did change things slightly.

That solves the mystery. Because of the lever ratio of the clutch fork, a very small difference in pressure plate thickness is multiplied at the outer end. Fabricating the longer rod was exactly the right solution to the problem. Good job, and nice closure even with the time that's passed. You may save someone a lot of head scratching down the road.

My most satisfying experience....ever....was with a '73 shortbed stepside pickup that I purchased a few years ago. The clutch was toast, so I pulled the granny 4-speed (heavy, heavy, heavy) and had the flywheel resurfaced at Arizona Clutch and Brake, followed by a new bronze bushing in the crank, new Centerforce pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing and every piece of clutch linkage on the truck. As I said in the first sentence of this post, that truck was the best driving vehicle I have ever owned, at least as far as the clutch was concerned. Smooth as silk.

And by the way, packing the old pilot bushing with grease and using a trans mainshaft or other shaft the O.D. of the bearing I.D. to bang on the grease will absolutely hydraulic the old bushing out of the crank, no fret, no sweat.

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